Day 90 (Wednesday 5th March 08)

Up early and ready waiting for the bus at 7:30am. One of the guys at the guesthouse then asked us if he could give our name to a guesthouse in Siem Reap as they would then be there waiting for us and we would get free transport. We agreed as thought we may as well have a look. As usual the minibus picking us up for the bus was late! We got transferred to the main bus and set off for Siem Reap at about 8am. Stopped for about half an hour at about half way and arrived in Siem Reap at about 1:30pm. The bus stopped in an enclosed area with a gate shut behind. We all then got off the bus and collected our bags. Luckily our guy was there to meet us. He helped us with our bags and we went to make our way out through the gate. The length of it was packed with people - some were begging, some wanted to offer Tuk-Tuk rides and there were also lots of children begging. The guy from the guesthouse and Mark got out okay but as soon as Em walked out the children all grabbed her and she couldn't get out. When one of them started shoving his severed arm in her face she got a bit upset. Luckily Mark noticed and came back and pulled Em through the crowd. The guy from the guesthouse then noticed and shouted at the children trying to keep them away but it wasn't much good. Finally left and got to the guesthouse. Nice enough place and very cheap rooms so decided to stay. Used the internet and found out we could go on a sunset tour. Our driver took us to get our 3day passes for the Temples of Angkor and then we made our way to Phnom Bakheng mountain. Our driver dropped us off at the bottom and we made our way up to the top to watch the sunset. To climb up the temple we had to climb very steep steps! Amazing view! Also some amazing ancient architecture. Once the sun had disappeared we then made our way back down the mountain to meet our driver. Made our way back to the guesthouse and went for something to eat as we were now really hungry! Went up to the restuarant at the top of the guesthouse and ordered. Got chatting to the staff here and they are all very friendly and helpful. They make a great effort and make sure they remember your names. The owner loved putting Mark's sunglasses on his son's face! Didn't think we were going to get them back! It was a good bit of fun. Going to have to be an early night tonight as have to be up at 4:30am tomorrow for the sunrise over the Angkor Wat.

Day 91 (Thursday 6th March 08)

Up at 4:30am to be ready to leave by 5:30am for sunrise over the Angkor Wat. Left with our driver (Tary) in the dark and nice cool morning. Arrived at the Angkor Wat and watched the sunrise along with lots of other people! Totally amazing. Once the sun had risen we then went for a look around the temple and saw all the awesome carvings. They all tell a story of what went on in ancient times. It's pretty mind blowing. We then saw the famous towers on top of the Wat. We then met Tary and he took us for breakfast which we paid for. Headed off to Ankor Thom and worked our way around the massive area of temples. Saw the amazing big faces carved into the stone and all the smaller more detailed ones as well. It started getting really hot towards the end of the temples here at about 9am. Met up with Tary again and headed onto Thommanom and Chau Say Thevoda temples which were smaller than the previous ones but still very interesting. These two are very popular with Thai people as they are related in their history. Onto Ta Keo which was majorly tall with small worn out steep steps to the top. Headed to the top where a guide was saying that 5 Cambodians had fallen down the stairs on their way up just a few days ago. Carried on anyway and had some good views from the top. The last temple before lunch was Ta Prohm which was one of the best so far as it had massive trees growing amongst the temple. The roots of the trees breaking up the stone structures was an impressive site. Went back to meet Tary and then had some fried rice with vegetables for lunch. By now very hot and sweaty (Em is perspiring as women don't sweat!). Banteay Kdei Temple was our next stop and yet another impressive piece of architecture with more interesting carvings etc. Across the road was Sras Srang which is a man made lake which is well known for kids playing in in the hot season. The last temple for the day was Prasat Kravan which was a smaller temple but again still awesome to admire. Arrived back at the guesthouse at about 3pm after very tiring and hot day. Ready for a rest but uploaded some photos very slowly. Had something to eat at the guesthouse and chatted to some of the staff. Went to bed for some much needed sleep.

Day 92 (Friday 7th March 08)

Bit of a later start leaving at 9am but still very tired. Had breakfast before we left. While Em was eating her breakfast she found a nice little surprise in her baguette, a rat dropping. Put us both right off our breakfast but we were hungry so Em picked out the rat dropping and we quickly finished our lovely meal feeling sick! Met up with Tary and headed to Preah Khan temple which had some really awesome statues as you walked through the entrance. As you walk through the temple the doorways get smaller and smaller. Not sure why this is? Walked out the other side and met Tary. Next stop was Neak Pean but by now we are so tired and hot that we are losing enthusiasm. This ruin consisted of a central basin surrounded by four other basins which represent the four oceans. Didn't stay long but walked around it. It was then onto Ta Som which was a smaller temple but had some amazing stone towers and walls surrounding the complex. Carried onto the Eastern Mebon which was three tiered with steep steps up to the top. Saw some massive carvings of elephants on all four corners which was cool. Looked around at the top and saw the cool view. Next was about half an hours drive to Banteay Srey which was nice to see the countryside along the way and see how people live. When we got there we made our way into the temple and saw some intimidating guys dressed in what looked like police uniforms. They looked as if they were looking around the temple but just staring at people in funny ways! After we finished we moved onto Bantey Samrei after another half an hours drive back. Very hot by now as very humid today. As usual got hassled a lot by the young children selling merchandise. Had a late lunch with Tary and had an interesting conversation. Then onto the last temple for the day Pre Rup which was really small but again very tall. Lots more steep steps up to the top but an amazing view. Met Tary and headed back to the guesthouse. Went up to the restaurant on the top floor for a bottle of water and were messing around with one the small girls as she was interested in the camera. Then came back downstairs and waited for the internet to be free. Whilst we were waiting for the internet the same girl that was interested in the camera came down the stairs slowly in floods of tears. The grandma slapped her around the face and the grandpa picked her up. The grandma then grabbed the broom and started beating her with it. It looked to start with that the grandpa tried to stop her and walked outside still holding the little girl with the woman still beating her. The grandpa then put her down, walked away and picked up a stick and came back. Then both the grandma and grandpa started shouting at her whilst pointing the stick and broom at her and hitting her. After a while they stopped and just were talking to her in a harsh tone of voice. We were shocked by this and even more shocked to find one of the guys working at the guesthouse laughing at this. Definitely put a downer on the day! The grandpa then took the little girl with a stick into one of the bedrooms that they use downstairs. God knows what he did but they were ages but when they eventually came out the girl seemed ok. Until the internet was free the grandma then tried to justify herself and what they had just been doing saying that it was not good for them to cry. Therefore found out that they had done that to her just because she had been crying! Had something to eat at the guest house again.

Day 93 (Saturday 8th March 08)

Meet Tary at 7am after having some breakfast. It was raining which was a bit of a shock. We started on our way to Preah Ko and realised that there was a whole in the Tuk-tuk at the bottom and all the mud was splashing in all over our feet and legs! Arrived at Preah Ko and it was still raining but nice as noone else was around. Again some amazing carvings but didn't stay long as not a very big temple. Came back to the Tuk-Tuk and Tary had stuffed a cloth in the hole and cleaned up all the mud. Headed on along the road to Bakong which was totally amazing and very popular around their New Year. Not as much enthusiasm today as so tired and Mark not feeling 100%. Next onto Lolei which was a very small temple so had a look around and went back to Tary. It was then the long 2 hour drive to Beang Mealea. Very bumpy and lots of dirt constantly flying in your face but interesting to see the countryside and how the people live. Amazing how so many of them still do not have a water pump and have to get their water from the dirty stream. Stopped along the road on the way to cool down the bike engine. Also Tary said he was stung by a bee on the way and the sting was still in where he had been stung on his neck so he managed to pull it out. After about 10mins we were then on our way again. Arrived at the temple and Tary had a lie down as it looked as if he was struggling while we explored the temple. It was very hot walking on the platforms through the temple which had been set up for safety. Some nutters were still exploring some dodgy parts of the ruins. Went back to meet up with Tary and found out one of his eyes had swollen up because of the bee sting and he wasn't feeling very well. He insisted he was fine to drive but we stopped for lunch for a while and chilled out for a bit before heading back on the long 2 hour journey to the guest house. Stopped at the Pharmacy on the way back for some shower gel. Mark now wasn't feeling very good and whilst we were in the shop he had to go outside to be sick. Luckily it was in a bag this time which the pharmacist gave him. Tary very kindly looked after Mark while Em paid. Went back to the guest house for Mark to lay down for a while. Went and used Skype briefly and then went for something to eat. Early night as Mark not feeling good at all.

Day 94 (Sunday 9th March 08)

Up at bit later today as Mark still not 100%. Went for some lunch upstairs at the guest house, had a mouldy sandwich which they had half toasted so maybe we wouldn't notice. Thinking it is probably the food at the guest house that is making us feel dodgy! Walked along the main road to find somewhere to burn our photos to DVD as all our cards are full. Found somewhere quite quickly and seemed a good quick place. Walked back to the guest house and asked if someone could take us to The Happy Ranch which we had seen advertised to go horse-riding. Luckily it was Tary that was called and he took us along the very bumpy journey and arranged to pick us up after. Mark very nervous as it was his first time on a horse. The lady at the ranch didn't help matters by saying that both the horses we were riding had rolled when out riding, so saying to Mark to make sure his horse didn't stop and start pawing at the ground. Once on Mark still was very nervous but headed off for an hour trek. Interesting to go through the small villages and see what was going on. Very hot as about 2:30pm. Mark started to relax a bit and enjoyed it more than he thought. Tried a little trot which Mark found very scary and he was very sore by the end of the hour! Em enjoyed being out riding again. Tary picked us up as arranged and took us back to the guest house. He had to rush off yet again to go and pick yet more people up from the buses, he was looking very tired and said he was still not well from his bee sting. Went out to attempt to use the internet but Mark feeling very sick again so back to the guest house to chill out. Couldn't face eating at the guest house again so went downstairs and Tary took us into town. Very good food but Mark struggled. As arranged Tary picked us up and took us back to the guest house. When he dropped us, which was about 9pm, he said he was going home at 9:30pm. They are allowed to go home once a month but he said he had to be back for 5am the next morning. We couldn't believe it, he was already so tired from his busy day and he now had to drive about half an hour to get home. Then he was going to stay up most of the night catching up with his Mum before having to be back at 5am. They have a hard life! We went up to our room to pack and get an earlish night ready for an early morning.