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damo and jane - tour 2004/5
Hi Folks,
This is a postcard from Bottle beach (called Had Kuat) which is situated on the north of Koh Phagnan. We stayed here about 4 years ago and had to come back as it is still relatively unspoilt and commercial free, by todays standards. The setup is basic; 4 families own and run their restaurant and about 20 - 30 bungalows which are set right on the beach and run back into the trees and jungle. The idea is you stay in your bungalow and eat at your family restaurant. No money changes hand as everything goes on a tab which you can settle at any time. There are bottle beach 1 - 3 and the Smile bungalows. Smile is where we stayed last time, so went straight back there. Its situated on the west side (best side) of the 400m long beach and has the best swimming area and the best restaurant.. And the best staff, come to think of it. We ended up staying for 5 weeks as we really got into the BB lifestyle and had to leave when the rainy season kicked in big time. This place is the only beach that closes from Oct to Jan as it is pretty remote and can only be reached by longtail boat (dont run when its choppy) or 4x4, when available. A typical day on BB would be awake, cold shower, brekky down the restaurant, sun creme on, lilo out and in the water for an hour or so before the midday sun. Then back to the bungalow to chill and read for a bit, then lunchtime!! After food its back out on the lilo for a bit, then in the shade to cool down before maybe some volleyball or some lilo sports (I invented a new sport - Lilo style), then back to the bungalow for another cold shower and some mosquito repellant, then into the hammock for a few hours to read before heading down to the restaurant for some more food. And a few scoops of booze.. And a few games of s***head, the most popular card game in Smile. Then its a race back to the bungalow before the power goes off (generator), as it can get quite dangerous navigating the rocky path back after a few sherbertio's... And thats it. Except for the occasional trip into Chaloklum or Thong Sala to buy stuff and use internet/phone. Mind you, according to the longest resident of BB (Jason), we should win an award as we left the beach twice in about 5 weeks. Thats a record, apparently!! We are now in Thong Sala contemplating our next move and updating this site. More info as soon as I know it. Thanks for reading, stay in touch, peace and love.. damo
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