It was hard leaving such a good hotel 3 star but I would have given it more. Breakfast was huge and I ate like a hampster not knowing when my next meal would come. Was starting to feel tired and had not eaten well since breakfast, the rest of the route looked very steep and many turns with a ferry crossing across a lake to look forward to. I will be back in familiar territory as was at Verbania when I first arrived back in Italy from Switzerland a couple of day...

I find myself in a small (10 room) hotel in San Fedele Intelvi CO, Italy at 700 metres elevation just east of Lugano. After a big hot transport stage it’s 6.15 pm. Just had a swim in their great pool ! I was very lucky as one guest left early €50 including breakfast however first time I’ve splashed out on this trip. I rode the transport stage on the Autostrada as it was quickest (only around 10€ in tolls) to get here and at the end that tiny windy road ...

Italy bound ... Up 6.30 away by 7.50 which is a trip record. I had two artisan pale ale beers left so decided to give them to the CZECH boys especially after last night Roman - George - jiri. Feeling rather sluggish as the 50 + proof CZECH evil brew left it’s mark so started slowly as both bike and body felt heavy. The Valley was quiet down but not so up which was busy already with a steady stream of vans and trucks. Scenery was amazing with old bridges ...

Did not get to meet a black bear, slightly disappointed as would have made a great story (had Swiss army knife ready...). Up early(a record on road 7 am) and off down a steep rocky track from my wild camp site. Some again amazing roads - very busy though with bikes and cars. Summary of today would be mixed - emotions - read on internet that many Italians and visitors believe that motorcyclists and fast car drivers of which there are many, have ruined the Dolom...

I am within an easy days ride from the Stelvio Pass and since this famous road holds such a fascination to cyclists and motorcyclists alike, a visit would be appropriate. En route to stelvio via Bormio, we cross the Stelvio pass (Passo dello Stelvio), at 2757 meters it is the second highest paved mountain road in the alps. "Regarded by motorists as one of the most challenging roads in the world, it has 60 hairpins with 48 of them on the northern / eastern ramp....