Did not get to meet a black bear, slightly disappointed as would have made a great story (had Swiss army knife ready...). Up early(a record on road 7 am) and off down a steep rocky track from my wild camp site. Some again amazing roads - very busy though with bikes and cars. Summary of today would be mixed - emotions - read on internet that many Italians and visitors believe that motorcyclists and fast car drivers of which there are many, have ruined the Dolom...

I am within an easy days ride from the Stelvio Pass and since this famous road holds such a fascination to cyclists and motorcyclists alike, a visit would be appropriate. En route to stelvio via Bormio, we cross the Stelvio pass (Passo dello Stelvio), at 2757 meters it is the second highest paved mountain road in the alps. "Regarded by motorists as one of the most challenging roads in the world, it has 60 hairpins with 48 of them on the northern / eastern ramp....