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Adventures of a Global Wanderer
Images of the Silk Road are forever depicted by caravan traders making their way across sandy dunes to the fabled oasis of Samarkand. The city was home to untold treasures criss crossing their way across deserts from China to Europe. Samarkands Registan is the most famous sight of the Silk Road and conjures up images of an Arabian bazaar town.
The Registan (sandy place) is made of a square comprising of three buildings facing each other on each side. It has received much attention due to the unique architectural beauty and being a masterpiece of engineering. It is a breathtaking sight built by the creators of the Taj Mahal and has the same incredible beauty.
Surprisingly the city's main road runs right alongside the main square of The Registan. I'd expected it to be hidden away and better protected like many of the historic sites we had visited thus far.
From street level there is a viewing platform to view the panorama of the three buildings. You have to buy a ticket to enter which was included in my tour package.
What struck me at first was the different styles of tilework on each building. Each has its own style and they were unique from other tile designs we had seen before.
Also they were standalone buildings, not in built up areas so you could see the length of the building with the same detailed tilework stretching to the back
The square is roped off and there are police present to make sure you have paid and enter past them. It was a shame the weather was so overcast still with some light drizzle.
In the distance you can see restoration work going on at one of the domes. The whole site was half demolished in an earthquake in the 1890s and has been undergoing restoration work since the Soviet times.
Its almost confusing figuring out which way to look. Each building and each alcove has its own unique styled patterned tilework.
We went first into the Ulug Beg Madrassa on the left side. The entrance corridor is filled with souvenir stalls leading into the main courtyard.
This is the same as other Madrassa's with two level classroom alcove doors except that the ground floor classrooms are now used as souvenir shops. This was the first time I was going to get to go inside one of these classrooms.
The first one we entered allowed access from an inside staircase to the upper level sleeping quarters. Both levels were filled with souvenir items and clothing for sale but it was nice to see the size and interior.
Surprisingly it was warm as the outer walls were so thick. I was looking at buying a ceramic plate but then noticed only the rim was painted and the centre was just a sticker of The Registan.
The storeowner said I could wear a traditional hat and gown and take a photo. I thought they'd want me to buy something but my guide kept saying I dont have to. I looked around first for some things I liked.
There were some ceramic plates of the Registan but upon closer inspection the centre was a sticker and the hand painted ones were too expensive. I ended up getting a small ceramic figure and a scene of the Registan for 9000 Som both ($4.50). Then I took my pic and the cap and gown with no guilty feelings
In another store an older lady had a different hat and gown and wanted me to go in her store. She was saying "just looking.. no buy.. no business.." I liked her cheeky attitude so I decided to see if there was anything else I wanted to buy first.
They had a hand painted tamborine which was a bit expensive. I found a small hand painted ceramic bowl style teacup so I was going to buy that. They they lady started saying "why one, buy two, buy two... no business". I felt sorry because it was low season so I got a magnet of the Registan. Then I took my pic with the hat and gown as we were both happy
I was talking with my guide that I felt sorry for the lady as it was low season but she said the lady says that to everyone. She was quite cheeky but I enjoyed myself. The total was 8000 Som ($4) this time and I had to count out all my 1000 bills
The locals had seen me going into two stores so now they tried getting me to go in theirs so we had to be firm and say no more. We exited back to the Registan and went next to Tillya Kari Madrassa which is the centre one
This building has its own style of tilework in each of the alcoves. Again they were very intricate
and layered with detail.
Upon entering this building was of totally different style in the interior. The centre was a gold detailed Mosque with gold detailed Mihrab and detailed patterns across the walls and arches.
There were detailed miniature Quranic writings above the Mihrab and the main dome had very detailed design work in both the gold artwork and mini alcoves circulating the base of the dome
A man went inside the rope to pray as I didnt know if this was a practicing Mosque. The gold architecture and artwork were similar to the Tomb of the Emir we had visited this morning although this building was more brightly lit
The side corridor housed a photo exhibit of the Registan from some of the earliest photos. After the earthquake of the 1890s many of the building were in poor repair and had domes missing or collapsed minarets.
One of the minarets was leaning to one side and the Soviets did try to straighten it. The Registan was still used as a bazaar with many tents setup in the main square
Out in the madrassa courtyard a man wanted us to go in his store to see the library in the classroom which was rare. I asked the guide if it was ok as I didnt want to get stuck somewhere being pushed into buying something
He demonstrated how people would put the shawl over their knees and have a burning coal under to keep warm before they had gas heating. Then he wanted me to buy a shawl which ranged from $5 to $250 but they're not items I was interested in so we thanked him and left.
Back in the main square a man approached me offering to let me go up one minaret and to the second level of the madrassa. He wanted 20,000 ($10) but then dropped to 15,000 ($7.50). I asked my guide how much it should be and she said 10,000 ($5)
I didnt think it was worth it today as the weather was bad and we were too close to the centre. You needed to go to more of a distance to get a good view. Later I realized there were so many historic sights nearby it might have been good to go up to see the far away sights.
The final madrassa Shir Dor is unique in that it has animals depicted in art which is not allowed in Islam. I think they got around this by using imaginary animals as you can not depict a living person or creature
Again the outer tilework had its own unique style again in the arches and inside the alcoves. I didnt know what to expect in this last madrassa
This madrassa was more simpler and more in traditional madrassa style with two level classrooms. However the tilework and door designs here were very unique again and highly detailed
The classrooms were used as tourist shops again and there was some restoration work going on the two smaller domes.
It was really interesting spending a few hours here exploring this arhitectural jewel and centrepiece of the Silk Road. This is certainly somewhere I'd like to go again if I have the opportunity to go back to Uzbekistan.
The Registan (sandy place) is made of a square comprising of three buildings facing each other on each side. It has received much attention due to the unique architectural beauty and being a masterpiece of engineering. It is a breathtaking sight built by the creators of the Taj Mahal and has the same incredible beauty.
Surprisingly the city's main road runs right alongside the main square of The Registan. I'd expected it to be hidden away and better protected like many of the historic sites we had visited thus far.
From street level there is a viewing platform to view the panorama of the three buildings. You have to buy a ticket to enter which was included in my tour package.
What struck me at first was the different styles of tilework on each building. Each has its own style and they were unique from other tile designs we had seen before.
Also they were standalone buildings, not in built up areas so you could see the length of the building with the same detailed tilework stretching to the back
The square is roped off and there are police present to make sure you have paid and enter past them. It was a shame the weather was so overcast still with some light drizzle.
In the distance you can see restoration work going on at one of the domes. The whole site was half demolished in an earthquake in the 1890s and has been undergoing restoration work since the Soviet times.
Its almost confusing figuring out which way to look. Each building and each alcove has its own unique styled patterned tilework.
We went first into the Ulug Beg Madrassa on the left side. The entrance corridor is filled with souvenir stalls leading into the main courtyard.
This is the same as other Madrassa's with two level classroom alcove doors except that the ground floor classrooms are now used as souvenir shops. This was the first time I was going to get to go inside one of these classrooms.
The first one we entered allowed access from an inside staircase to the upper level sleeping quarters. Both levels were filled with souvenir items and clothing for sale but it was nice to see the size and interior.
Surprisingly it was warm as the outer walls were so thick. I was looking at buying a ceramic plate but then noticed only the rim was painted and the centre was just a sticker of The Registan.
The storeowner said I could wear a traditional hat and gown and take a photo. I thought they'd want me to buy something but my guide kept saying I dont have to. I looked around first for some things I liked.
There were some ceramic plates of the Registan but upon closer inspection the centre was a sticker and the hand painted ones were too expensive. I ended up getting a small ceramic figure and a scene of the Registan for 9000 Som both ($4.50). Then I took my pic and the cap and gown with no guilty feelings
In another store an older lady had a different hat and gown and wanted me to go in her store. She was saying "just looking.. no buy.. no business.." I liked her cheeky attitude so I decided to see if there was anything else I wanted to buy first.
They had a hand painted tamborine which was a bit expensive. I found a small hand painted ceramic bowl style teacup so I was going to buy that. They they lady started saying "why one, buy two, buy two... no business". I felt sorry because it was low season so I got a magnet of the Registan. Then I took my pic with the hat and gown as we were both happy
I was talking with my guide that I felt sorry for the lady as it was low season but she said the lady says that to everyone. She was quite cheeky but I enjoyed myself. The total was 8000 Som ($4) this time and I had to count out all my 1000 bills
The locals had seen me going into two stores so now they tried getting me to go in theirs so we had to be firm and say no more. We exited back to the Registan and went next to Tillya Kari Madrassa which is the centre one
This building has its own style of tilework in each of the alcoves. Again they were very intricate
and layered with detail.
Upon entering this building was of totally different style in the interior. The centre was a gold detailed Mosque with gold detailed Mihrab and detailed patterns across the walls and arches.
There were detailed miniature Quranic writings above the Mihrab and the main dome had very detailed design work in both the gold artwork and mini alcoves circulating the base of the dome
A man went inside the rope to pray as I didnt know if this was a practicing Mosque. The gold architecture and artwork were similar to the Tomb of the Emir we had visited this morning although this building was more brightly lit
The side corridor housed a photo exhibit of the Registan from some of the earliest photos. After the earthquake of the 1890s many of the building were in poor repair and had domes missing or collapsed minarets.
One of the minarets was leaning to one side and the Soviets did try to straighten it. The Registan was still used as a bazaar with many tents setup in the main square
Out in the madrassa courtyard a man wanted us to go in his store to see the library in the classroom which was rare. I asked the guide if it was ok as I didnt want to get stuck somewhere being pushed into buying something
He demonstrated how people would put the shawl over their knees and have a burning coal under to keep warm before they had gas heating. Then he wanted me to buy a shawl which ranged from $5 to $250 but they're not items I was interested in so we thanked him and left.
Back in the main square a man approached me offering to let me go up one minaret and to the second level of the madrassa. He wanted 20,000 ($10) but then dropped to 15,000 ($7.50). I asked my guide how much it should be and she said 10,000 ($5)
I didnt think it was worth it today as the weather was bad and we were too close to the centre. You needed to go to more of a distance to get a good view. Later I realized there were so many historic sights nearby it might have been good to go up to see the far away sights.
The final madrassa Shir Dor is unique in that it has animals depicted in art which is not allowed in Islam. I think they got around this by using imaginary animals as you can not depict a living person or creature
Again the outer tilework had its own unique style again in the arches and inside the alcoves. I didnt know what to expect in this last madrassa
This madrassa was more simpler and more in traditional madrassa style with two level classrooms. However the tilework and door designs here were very unique again and highly detailed
The classrooms were used as tourist shops again and there was some restoration work going on the two smaller domes.
It was really interesting spending a few hours here exploring this arhitectural jewel and centrepiece of the Silk Road. This is certainly somewhere I'd like to go again if I have the opportunity to go back to Uzbekistan.
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