For those waiting on edge, I can confirm that the train finally strolled into the station in the morning a mere 2 hours later than it was meant to. Ive learnt not to trust the trains. Anyhu

We made it to chaing mai, found our hostel, and then since it was morningish still headed into town. There were again temples here, not ruins just temples. It was nice enough but in the end a temple is a temple, with a few exceptions (more on that later). We managed to fill the day and after doing pretty well at sticking to Thai food, rice and noodles etc, I finally gave in to bacon and eggs for lunch.

The main point of chasing mai though is to go treking. We were booked on a 2 day 1 night into the jungle and the next day we headed off. First stop, elephant ride. As methods of transport go I can report that elephants are generally uncomfortable and slow. On the plus, there is pretty Mich nothing that stops them. Our elephant was a bit of a rebel and kept trying to wander off from the group, even slipping off its leash at me point then heading the other way before the trainer caught up. I think our may have been annoyed as we promptly elected to calling it Gerald despite it being a female whom may or may not have been pregnant. It was interesting to do once but not something I would go out of my way to do again.

Later on we treked into the jungle a bit. Stopping off at a waterfall where there is a small village for a swim in the fall,then heading on into more jungle before making it to the camp for the night. The camp itself was a jungle village and we a stayed in some more ts owned by our guide, he and his family lived in one. Being in a group again was a laugh and I can say the jungle gets incredibly noisy at night.

The next day had a long trek in more jungle, being told about the various insects etc that don't sound nice at all. We stopped in villages and learnt about the culture and their deeply inefficient way of grinding rice and saw some other trade women at work. The food throughout all this was pretty good, ass cooked by locals, though for lunch I still think I prefer plates to eating out of leaves. Finally we went bamboo rafting. It more like punting on a fastrish river. Got a go at punting and naturally I'm a pro. Sadly one of the others on my raft wasn't and there were a couple of crashes. Sadly we became grounded at one point and had to get off the raft at which point I slashed my foot on a rock so I maybe carrying several tropical things in my body now.

Last was lunch and some traditional rice wine/vodka. Just tasted like vodka. And saw a massive spider the size of my face.

We made it back to the hostel in the evening and went on with our group to the night market. Usual bits here. Then we went on to a show. And not a strip show atm least but sadly was a ladyboy show. The group was going and we thought we better at least be able to say we went to something. It wads...interesting. Luckily Mr Thomas never came out to say hi from any of the ladies...boys...them.

The next day was a 8 hour bus ride to the Laos border. It probably didn't help that I was hungover but this journey seemed to go on forever. The unexpected highlight of this was that it did stop for 20 minutes at the white temple in chaing rai. By fat the best temlple I've seen. Pretty, striking and downright weird. For starters, its all white and just stands out with nice gardens and sculptures and like a thing of beauty. Then you start examining it more. As you was up the steps there are sculptures of a pit of hands and skulls in the ground either side rising up at you.

Inside, I was quietly admiring the artwork on the inside of the temple, not really paying too much attention as the inside of temples are usually the same, when something caught my eye and I quickly began to wonder why spiderman was painted in amongst this temple artwork. Then I found batman, neo, star wars characters, pinhead, etc etc. The back wall is just laced with different film characters.

Moving to the outside there were pot heads hanging from a tree with plants hanging down. Batman and bellboy were there amongst others, not sure batman deserve beheading. Also a bit sculpture of predator rising out of the lawn. The whole things was beautifully bizarre.

Eventually made it to the boarder, discovered there was nothing in the town we were in, and called the night. We stayed here in anhstel remminicent of a poorly run prison and probably the least pleasant building we've stayed in. The pipe from the sink simply went to the floor and poured the water on your feet and even that wasn't connected to the basin.the shower didn't work and I fear to think what was lurking in the sheets. But a bed is a bed.

The nextr day was the start of a 2 day slow boat down the Mekong river to Luang Prabang. Lots of nice scenery and gentile atmosphere. Though it does rain a lot and I am covered in mosquito bites. My being careful has not helped in the slightest. On note of the border crossing although we got across with no issues it was a slow and poorly organized affair and is only meant to get worse for our next few crossings. The slow boat to itself was pleasant thigh with issues but we made it through the nothing town of pak beng and onto the town of luang prabang.

At first I didn't really get this town. We arrived in in the evening and went over to the night market and was all perfectly nice. The next day we went round the main sights such included a couple of wats, one on a big hill, a museum that was a palace until the king was kindly evicted by the people (not so kindly) and perused the restaurants. It was hard to understand why this was a major city when there seemed so little there other than it is the main city after the border.but thats the poi t. It is a small town with loads of little cafes and restaurants and spas in pretty little French buildings. A good place to do nothing for a few days. We however, do not have the time luxary to do nothing SK moved onto a noight bus yo vinetianne.

I can say that the night bus up until this point was one of the mostunpleasent nights I've had. The sleeper bus was full so we were just on a standard coach for 10 hours overnight. We had assumed we would just sleep, uncomfortably granted, but still sleep most of it. How wrong we were. The bus had Jo toilet so never 2 hours or less it stopped in a questionable area where there were some blackout out huts with toilets in. And just to make sure this constantly disrupted everyone everytim the busq stopped it put all interior lights on full. And just in case anyone thought they could beat the system by putting something over their eyes whenever the bus stopped and the lights came on they would also play music on near full blast for a good minute or two just to ensure everyone was awake and wouldn't wet themselves in their sleep. At most I got a combined 1 hour sleep in my uncomfortable chair, but we made it.

Vientienne is very similar to thang probang. Lots of little French inspired buildings and cafes biut not much else. After finding a hostel and some breakfast we went over to the Vietnam embassy to get our visa. After some questionable looks from some serious looking officials our passports were taken away for processing for 24 hours. We then made our way to a travel agent, did a bit of price comparison to find the cheapest, and booked a sleeper bus to get us to Hanoi the following day. We stopped to lunch but after no sleep and a busy few days we didn't really have the energy to do anything so just went and sat in a cafe for a bit with a drink before relaxing in the hotel later. In the evening went out for Indian but essentially did nothing all afternoon.

The following day, got some breakfast and found a temple, pretty much same old. After lunch went and saw the museum. Lots of pictures and guns but not huge amounts of information. Interesting to see and a lot of anti Americanism, understandably given the fact they bombed the s*** out of this country. Also, although most bits had an English translation I think they should employ a proof reader in future. Spelling errors was the least of the problem and some I had no idea what was meant to be being said.

Moving on from this w went and secerued some Dong (Vietnam currency) then went back to the Vietnam embassy to collect passport and visa. Got this without issue and headed back to catch bus.

Now on a sleeper bus the s time. 22 hours to Hanoi. On the plus side the seats go flat to an almost bedlike position. On the downside its incredibly cramped, and the driver does not like westerners. Everyone western has been shoved into the crampt seats at the back unlike the Asian people who could choose and sit where they liked, we were pretty much forbidden from sitting in seats near the front. As such we are squashed in the back similar to sardines on a tin (in pretty sure that's a saying) and not cpomfprtable with npowhere too put anything. Its going to be an interesting 22 hours.

The sleeper bus was no so bad. It arrived at the border at 2am and then just sat there for 4 hours until the boarder opened so wasn't the best organisation but it got us to Hanoi. The border crossing itself was laborious and some questionable folk. Also, Asia has not seemed to grasp the concept of a good British que. My kindly queing techniques were shunned and eventually just had to force my way through everything. Plus, there were moths in the immigration building the size of my face which gave me a good desire to get out quickly.

Hanoi is very interesting. It is pure a d unadulterated madness. Bikes everywhere, tiny streets with no organization, women with woven baskets and live fish in pots lining the streets, its all just mad. Having arrived at the bus station we decided to follow some other travellers we had met on the bus to their hostel and they seemed to know where they were going.there were 5 of us plus luggage plus the driver that somehow managed to squeeze into a tiny saxo or something. Having arrived, got checked in, went for a meal which consisted of sitting on tiny chairs reminissiant of a children's table barbequing our own chicken but luckily I don't think I ha e food poisoning. Later sent onto the town to a few bars etc. Most closed pretty early but we got rides on the back of scooters to a questionable place which had the shutter half down so not sure of legitimacy.

This brings me onto the next point of Hanoi. It is a maze. I have left the hostel 4 times now and every time I have been lost and unable for a long time to refind the hostel. We did a walking tour this morning so have had a little look around and booked into go to halong bay tomorrow for an overnight cruise so all looking good.

Also, I shall note that I have had to re learn the green cross code since coming to Asia, particularly Vietnam. When crossing a road you walk forwards and across without waiting, hesitating, or looking. There's no point waiting as no one will stop for you. There are no pedestrian crossings or traffics lights. If you wait for a gap the traffic is constantr so you will be waiting a very long time. If you look, all you will do is see all the things like that won't stop but may kill you. You just have to go for it, walk, and hope everything avoids you and goes around. Its interesting

OK, I'm back. Been to halong bay and can report its pretty awesome. If youve done your research as well as myself and dedicated 75 minutes of time to watching the top gear Vietnam special then halong bay is like it is when they were there. Huge limestone rock islands jutting out of the water everywhere with caves and all manner of things. We were on a 2 day 1 night cruise on a junker. Got picked up at 7am or something from Hanoi and made the 4 hours bus ride to halong city, nothing to interesting to report here other than that the road was shockingly bad.

The harbour at halong is full to bursting with junkers taking tourists out. We made our way into one of the main sections after an interesting mainly seafood lunch. Here we got a glimpse of the scale of the place, its just continuous. Also stopped in surprising cave which was in one of the islands and pretty vast. Finished the day with a short trek to the top of one of the islands to get a view out and a swim in the sea off a beach on one of the islands.

The following day got up and did some kyacking. The islands were further apart then looked so didn't get round too Much in the time we had but managed to seek out and crash into a few small caves and wotnot. All this boat stuff seems a doddle. After some lunch of another interesting assortment made it back to the mainland and caught the bus back to Hanoi. Luckily it was on time for a change and managed to catch our bus south to hue on the same day. Propa job.

I swear I will upload all this at some point but until then I shall just keep writing. So, the bus to hue was OK but we had been once again lumbered on the back bed seat where you are squashed next to everyone and the guy next to me wouldn't stop moving about in the night and trying to encrouch into my territory. It is a battle to keep your seat space and every centimeter counts. Give up just a little and you may as well abandon the seat and sleep in the asle.

Hue itself is once again an interesting nplace. We checked into a backpackers and headed off to the imperial city. This was once the capital before the separation and subsequent war and is a vast walled complex which once had a load of buildings inside. Sadly, during the Vietnam war, the Americans bombed the s*** out of it and levelled vast areas. Now ythere is a huge rehuoilding project going on but still large swathes are just empty. It is a strange pace. The old stuff is great but far between. The walls are impressive, there's loads of old gates and arches and a few remaining buildings from the old days. Most of these have battle wounds and can see the bullet holes etc, its all interesting.

The new stuff is a bit more confusing. It gives and idea of the former glory of this area, and is great to see and see that it is being brought back. Some of the bits here are ngreat. The issue is that it is all pretty new and a lot of it feels that way. Its great but a bit disappointing at the same time for the fact it's not real in a way, its kinda like a replica.

Later on we stopped the streets and just generally took it easy. On the following day the morning we rented two scooters to go see the pagonda and some tombs. The pagonda was impressive, a seven story octaganal, but the tombs were near impossible to find. We eventually stumbelled into tu duc tomb after having to stop and ask locals several times. Its a big complex and nice to see he was well prepared for a s death. Seems a bit of a waste he had so many living areas kept there for even after he was dead. Also, it seems quite fitting of a father to give his son a tomb right next to his but to make sure it was smaller and less impressive, just to make sure we all remembered who the boss was.

The scooters themselves were hilarious. Paul nearly died almost instantly after riding into traffic with someone charging right at him. I fared better but still was never more that a few inches from dewath. There are just bikes everywhere, even in the sleepy town by comparison to the cities. And there are no traffic lights so you just have to gun it, try and weave round everyone and how for the best. Plus, the roads are terrible and there are near to no street signs so you never have any idea where you are or where your going. Great fun. And then it poured it down on us on the bikes.

Later we encountered a vast and annoying error which for once was not our fault. We were catching a bus to Saigon from ur hostel. A bus pulled up and the receptionist told us to get on. We checked with her the destination, confirmed with the bus driver, showed our ticket for them to famine and in various ways checked in excess of 5 times with varying people that It was the correct bus. After 20 minutes on this bus the diver got a call from the hstwl reception telling us we were on the wrong bus. Back to hue it was. Many arhguements with staff followed most of which acompised nothing. The end result being we would have to catch the bus the following day.

This was bad. We are on a vastly tight time schedule having not given ourselves nearly enough time to see Asia. But nothing you can do. We filled the day with food and varying things. Due to the loss of 24 hours we had to make the difficult decision of where that time came from. We still had Saigon, Phnom phen and slam reap to cover before heading to bangkok. To do all 3 would be near impossible and would cover near to nothing in each one. Sadly, Saigon bit the bullet. We caught our bus to Saigon but then after a 2 hour stopover we boarxded the next bus to Phnom Penh. It is a shame but we would rather do 2 cities decently than 3 cities of nothing. The other downside is that including a few bus changes and breaks we pretty much had a 44 hour continuous bus journey from hue to Phnom Penh. Oh the joy

Addition: I have now transferred to an older bus and not dwelli g to much on the broken windscreen we have been on the road 2 hours now and it has broken down 4 times that if counted and we now seem to be doing the entire journey in second gear as the driver can't get any higher ones without the engine cutting out. This journey may be longer than expected.

Wellwe made it to Phnom Penh. Already I have been offered many sorts of drugs from questionable tuktuk drivers a d wotnot. Feels a lot more like Thailand here unlike the strangely solid Vietnam. Having eventually arrived in at around half 12 making our bus journey just shy of 48 hours we made our way to the killing fields. Unlike the genocide committed by the Nazis pol pot seemed to just target his entire population. There were those more at risk, the city folk were marched to the countryside to work and any who didn't got killed, plus and intellectuals, glasses wearers etc etc, but in general it just seemed to be everyone. 3 million dead out of a population of just 8 million. The killing fields were where most of it took place and its quite a harrowing place. Bones still litter the ground. There is a central monument with 8000 skulls inside. Very interesting and very disturbing on the whole. We also visited tuol sleng museum which was a school turned into a prison where most people were tortured before being sent to the killing fields a similar amount of disturbing stuff, just the shear scale and pictures of the victims, the khumer rouge were quite meticulous in their records.

But then something really sad happened. I dropped my camera and the lense smashed. Now I'm in a difficult position, I have less than 2 weeks before being back in england where I won't particularly need a camera, and yet I can't really go to Angkor wat without one. What to do. I shall leave you on this cliff hanger folks. Until next time.

Much lave