Up at 6 for the bus, which didn't pick us up until 7.30 then took us to another bus, so we didn't leave Pnom Penh until after 8am. Heading north for Siem Reap and about two hours in we stopped. The bus had overheated. Most westerners on the bus thought this was amusing, the locals didn't bat an eyelid. After half an hour we set off, only to stop again about half an hour later. This time it was about midday, we were in the middle of nowhere, all you could see was the road and flat scrub land with a few bushes and the odd peanut tree. They switched the bus off to cool down, therefore we had no air con. Outside the sun was buring, there was no relief. An hour later they tried to bump start it. Yes, people pushed the bus. A load of Cambodian passengers pushed while the driver tried and failed to get the engine started. He wouldn't rev it enough, it was painful. Everyone was willing it to go and ventually it did, slowly but surely for about 10 minutes until the driver stopped for lunch! We just wanted to drive and not stop until Siem Reap. We set out again with no trouble, driving for 30 minutes then, yep, it stopped again! This time we were there about an hour, then the not-so-bright driver did what he should have done in the first place and called for another bus. It would be two hours..... By now everyone was at boiling point, in both senses. We finally got to Siem Reap at 6pm. dan had been talkigng to a Cambodian guy, Cham, for hours and he had a tuk tuk so he took us from the bus park round a few guesthouses til we found one. Enjoy Villa is really nice - one of the best places we've stayed in, although we can't afford air con at $15/night but we have a fan. Went out, down to the old market area where restaurants and bars are. There are some really cool bars here, most set in French colonial style buildings and painted shades of reds inside with lanterns and carvings everywhere. The wierd thing is that along every roadside there are just piles and piles of rubble, and huge gaping caverns into the sewers. So the contrast with the smart bars is quite strange. But I loved it; very cool place. Went back early as we'd arranged with Cham to see sunrise at Angkor Wat.