So more temples today, run out of steam about 1pm after lunch (fish curry again, its fantastic). Felt a little bit colonial sitting there with massive plate of food (and pepsi). Some interesting table guests as follows: - 1 emaciated dog close to chewing own leg, probably would have made a beeline for my curry but clearly had no energy left 1 very small, equally knackered chicken with feathers already missing in worrying 'half way to the pot' look - sort of glad I was eating fish Assorted girls selling stuff you don't need - I had earlier been mugged by four 6 six year olds who dismayed at my attempts to 'buy them off' with a union jack pen bought at Gatwick airport, cornered me in a quiet temple and did me for a dollar. Not satisfied that her friend (the tallest and meanest at four foot one) would share the money like I'd recommended, I started running. My guide, seeing me in such terrible danger swooped by on the moped and scooped me up cowboy film style, a lucky escape really. To make matters worse, there was this karaoke DVD on in the background - already feeling guilty about my very full stomach, I asked the guide about the words to a particular song that sounded strangely like gentle on my mind crossed with waterloo sunset, a bit sad-sounding anyway. It turns out the song was about this woman who has to sell her body at night because her husband has no legs and has to stay at home!! Despite guilt levels rising to those unexperienced before, and in all seriousness I couldn't help but notice how contented everyone seemed (maybe not the animals), the people here are so honest and friendly, also open begging seems to be frowned upon, a measure of how proud these people are too. On to the capital tomorrow, am downgrading to 'budget' accommodation which means listening to other travellers stories about how little they paid for stuff - I'm a bit crap at bargaining to be honest.