The Odakyu train from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Hakone Yumote left exactly on time as one gets to expect from the Japanese transport system. We'd paid a little extra for the "Romance Car" plus a 3-day Hakone Free Pass - all of which meant a smooth ride of just over 90 mins. The 3-day Hakone Freepass allows for transport of every variety - train, funicular, bus, sightseeing ship or cable car - so worthwhile if you intend on getting out and about. From Hakone Yumoto, it was a 40 min train ride along the side of the mountain to a town called Gora - full of arty museums and craft shops. The countryside was very hilly, lush rainforest, with little waterfalls visible below, quaint small towns and plenty of holidaymakers. A short, meandering bus ride to Sengokuhara brought us to our lodging for the next 3 nights at the Mount View Hotel. Arriving a little early, we killed some time while our room was being prepared by visiting the Rene Lalique Glass Museum just down the road. There seems to be a big European influence in the area with the Saint Exuperay Little Prince Museum nearby also. The glass museum had some gorgeous rare jewellery, lots of Art Deco decorated timber screens, ornamental bowls and pictures - expensive but interesting and we all enjoyed it. Our room was a traditional ryokan style, with shoes off at the entrance, a low table with ground chairs and cushions, tatami mats on the floor and a tea set ready to go. The ensemble was completed by our yukatas (simpler form of kimono) which we were to wear to our pre booked kaiseki dinner downstairs. The food was incredible- around 10 dishes from simple tofu, pickles, miso, rice, tempura, followed by cook-your-own-wagyu on the hot plate. We could barely move upstairs to rest before our next special treat - a family soak in the private onsen, open to the outdoors with a view into a bamboo forest lit up in small lights. A little hot for the kids, but they hopped in and out, so the 45 mins went very quickly. Returning to our room, our beds had been brought in - futons with doonas and a grainy pillow. It took a little getting used to, but slept quite well.