This morning I awoke early in a room full of sleeping Germans (Bocas del Toro should be renamed 'New Frankfurt') and headed out to take one of the first water taxis bound for the neighbouring island of Bastimentos.

The population of Bocas del Toro is a melting pot of Castillo Panamanians, the descendants of African slaves, Chinese migrants and native Ngabe indians. Bastimentos is a more rugged version of the main island, Bocas, and although tourism's creeping impact is very clear here.

I had a fantastic breakfast of pancakes and coffee (which were alright...) but looking out over a beautiful view of the crystal clear Caribbean waters lapping the shores of the jungle covered Bastimentos island in front of the craggly, reggaeton blasting settlement of Old Bank.

From Old Bank, the main town of Bastimentos, I headed on a well trodden jungle trail across the island to 'Wizard Beach'.

It was this trail, that killed my vans.

I had elected to wear my vans because if I had killed my trainers that would have been a proper predicament. Death for my vans by the mud infested Panamanian jungle was a righteous, heroic end to their service.

It was horrific. Knee high mud and swarms of buzzing insects (although thankfully not too many actual bites) clambering up and down muddy jungle pathways, all to reach a rather second rate beach. Not the finest hour I must say.

Bocas is chill, but touristy and difficult to get off the beaten trail but am not quite done with my Caribbean fix. So in fact I'm back in Cahuita, this lovely little down on the Costa Rican coast.

The border crossing was seemless, but before heading back to Cahuita I made a diversion to the main town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca where I had another delicious course of rice and beans.

I'm very glad I chose Cahuita over Puerto Viejo. Puerto Viejo is super noisy and chock-full of tatty souvenir shops. The beach is nothing on Cahuita to.

On my return to Cahuita, I headed to Playa Negra, the main beach just north of Cahuita. This beach is one of the best I've ever been on, a divine black sand beach made even better by a phenomenal sunset. Biblically beautiful.

Tomorrow I hope to have a more chill last day by Caribbean, most likely visiting the neighbouring Cahuita National Park - one of Costa Rica's most visited. And probably doing some laundry. Very much looking forward to getting a taste of the big city, the Pacific and maybe a volcano or two...

Pura Vida!