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Wow! That was one hell of a slog!
Yesterday was a solid day, counting down the hours before the night bus relaxing in the hostel, chatting with some American and Dutch backpackers. Cuscopackers Hostel, Cusco is probably the best hostel I've ever been in, am definitely glad I stayed there.
It was then time to head to Cusco's Terminal Terrestre - its main bus terminal. Its absolutely mental, a decripit old building lined on both sides by booths of various bus companies with hawkers screaming 'Arequipa' 'Lima' 'Puno' and a variety of other cities, trying to get rides. It is quite an organised chaos though, you have set boarding areas and it all seems to roughly work out.
I was slightly dreading this bus ride after typing in Trans Salvador (the name of the company) into google... However, there was only really one niggle. I was at the back of bus. Next to the toilet. Thank god it didn't take solids, the stench of urine was bad enough by itself by the end of the bus ride.
The chairs were reasonably comfortable, although sleeping was always going to be difficult. I tried various positions, from spooning my rucksack from using it as a booster seat so I could stretch my legs. All the time, I was envious of how Michelle (a Bolivian geophysicist who studied in the US - sat next to me) seemed to sleep like a log.
Then, there were the bumps! Sometimes it was like a rollercoaster, it seemed as though we kept on taking diversions through little villages and getting stuck in potholes. But I definitely got some sleep. I know that from the feeling of massive surprise when I opened my eyes to incredibly bright sunlight!
It felt as though the temperature on the bus varied from about -10 to around 30 degrees - from baking in the sunshine on the flat, open altiplano, to freezing in the Andean night.
The border crossing was seemless. The guidebooks and various other places had been down on Desaguadero, without good reason. The border crossing was very easy, the bus driver took care of customs and the Bolivian border guards decided I wasn't worth strip searching for cocaine.
The final stretch, in daylight, towards La Paz was the best. Most of the people on the bus were headed to a catholic conference in Santa Cruz, the largest city in Bolivia. They were also musicians, and as the bus passed the beautiful views of a simmering Lake Titicaca (the world's highest lake), in the backdrop of the brilliant Cordillera Real, they seronaded us with a ukelele and various hymns.
Finally, we arrived in La Paz, having navigated the markets of the satellite city of El Alto, we descended towards the main bus terminal, a stunning building designed by Gustav Eiffel. My hostel is stones through away from the bus terminal, despite this, I still got a bit lost but soon found my way.
And here I am, back in Bolivia! It's an exciting moment, but a combination of altitude and tiredness means my head is still in circles. Now to catch up on lost sleep, and work out the plan for my first week in Bolivia, before my internship begins!
Vamos
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