Over the last three days we:

1. Were annoyed to observe taxis (when you could find one!) and rickshaw drivers were even more reluctant to use meters in Delhi than elsewhere in India.
2. Learned that central Delhi is famous for so-called 'shoeshine tricksters'. Don't ask me for details, look it up. I'm still in stitches...
3. Mastered the art of crossing the street in Delhi - and compared to Bombay that's a horse of a different color.
4. Got into a ladies only metro car by mistake, whereupon I was hissed out of the train by the appalled fairer sex. Then I saw the door slide shut in my face and got separated from K, trying to guess which station she'd get off at.
5. Got into a fight with a greedy gatekeeper at Delhi's Friday Mosque - a marvel to behold by the way - as a result of which I didn't take any pictures inside and didn't climb the minaret for a beautiful city panorama and K. didn't get in at all, vowing to blast the hell out of all the "dumb ignorant goat-f...s."
6. Visited a Sikh temple and immersed ourselves in the smell of sweaty feet and turbans.
7. Concluded each big Indian city must have a national gate of some sort. Delhi's India Gate might not have the grandeur of Bombay's Gateway of India but it has twice as many rickshaws and ice cream vendors.
8. Couldn't help but wonder why - while all of India's major religions, including the Baha'i - seem fixated on the idea of you taking off your shoes before entering their temples - the Sikhs seem to go a step further, refusing us entry because in my hand I was holding a box of shoes I'd just bought.
9. I weathered what over the last 7 days looked to be another two episodes of my belly's adamant refusal to digest anything Indian and came out victorious. To be continued.
10. Tried momos and fell in love with Tibet by association.
11. Faced unprecedented tout pressure in and around our hotel area, (some of them even grabbing me to get my attention which almost made me hit someone) and were pissed to find rickshaw drivers extremely spoiled and sometimes downright rude in Delhi
12. Concluded that there must be only one successful Bollywood actor around - Shah Rukh Khan - if the number of commercials and newspaper ads he appears in is anything to go by. I mean the guy is everywhere - think the old Polish "Lenin in the fridge" joke.
13. Visited Qtub Minar and the Lotus (Baha'i) Temple all in a great rush, got into a fit with a couple rickshaw drivers and miraculously despite traffic still made the 4.30pm bus to Manali. Almost fainted carrying the packs from the hotel to the supposedly close bus station - apparently heat in Delhi is much more oppressive than in Bombay...