Yesterday and today:

1. We understood that a "sleeper" should more appropriately be called a "waker" given that the average bus driver honks the horn just as often as any driver in India, that the horn has three piercing tones to set the mood and is perfectly audible inside the bus.
2. K. butchered her first hotel cockroach almost keeping her calm.
3. With very little tout resistance we visited the magnificent Buddhist cave temple complex in Ajanta. We travelled there by taxi - 2.5h there and 2.5h back, all for €17.
4. We got a decent bed for €18. The bidding downwards continues.
5. We booked our first train ticket and our first domestic flight!!!
6. We understood that while in Bombay we were something of a curiosity, in the provinces we rose to superstardom.
7. We realized that even the local police are not immune to K.'s charms and that the long arm of the law in the guise of six chortling youngsters in oversized uniforms loves wrapping itself around my girlfriend for this perfect picture opportunity just as much as any other male on this horny subcontinent.
8. We ventured into an unknown part of Arangabad (muslim market - many great snacks!) having no idea where our hotel is and how to explain a cabbie the way back. We remembered the hotel's name though. Horny policemen were kind to help.
9. We visited the splendid temples at Ellora caves and did so entirely by public bus just for the fun of it. The taxi driver from the day before wasn't happy but took it on the chin.
10. We refused for the first time to take photos with locals (that's fame going to our heads, right there!) - too tired after an umpteenth request.
11. On the way back I understood Indian collective taxi and rickshaw drivers are even greedier than elsewhere in terms of waiting until the car REALLY REALLY fills up. This led to unnecessary delays and a few vocal arguments after which...
12. We hitched our first ride with a local driver. Great guy, forgot to ask his name...!
13. We came to a painful self-realization that the infamous Delhi belly can f*** you up even without ever so much as setting foot in that venerable city.
14. We visited the inside of a few actual Indian toilets - not a good place to be when you have what I had. A big thanks to ShivTej hotel owners for their patient help and understanding.
15. Despite my condition, went to get on night train back to Bombay...