Yesterday and today we:
1. Learned that when Indians say "PIN code" they actually mean a ZIP code as in: what's the PIN code of your hotel?
2. Realized to my disgust that everything is so cheap here I lost my ability AND drive to haggle. Aargh!
3. Despite not having a license, rented a motorbike anyway. Got a little uneasy when the owner did not care to show me the headlight switch but strongly insisted on me mastering the horn.
4. Learned the rules of the Indian Highway Code. There are actually only two: a. might is right. and b. you are only responsible for what is in front of you. That means merging unexpectedly at any given time is ok and it is in the guy from behind's best interests to try and dodge you. Really. No, really.
5. Cracked the fabled Indian honking code: one short beep is for "I'm passing you". Two short ones are for: "Ok!" and a long one for "Don't!" Curiously, one short honk is also for: "I'll cut you off now" as in when a car coming the other way unexpectedly turns right directly in front of you, cutting you off. If you spot this just in time you might counter with a forceful long one meaning: "Don't you f***ing dare!", which sometimes works if you just keep on driving. I heard two long ones in reply meant: "I'll cut you off anyway" but this never came up. There was just not enough time.
6. Understood that riding a motorbike on an Indian road, in Indian monsoon rain, in Indian traffic and after dark (which doesn't mean traffic subsides) is far less relaxing than we had imagined,
7. Very narrowly avoided hitting a pedestrian on the side of the road.
8. Never had to bribe a cop to turn a blind eye to me not having a motorbike license. We didn't meet any.
9. Saw some very cool temples around Ponda to weather the occasional torrential downpours.
10. Found Goa's most famous beach - Palolem - overrated. Smelly, dirty and with the few occasional whites huddled together in a small area to better fend off occasional tout attacks.
11. Killed 18 ants in our room. Turned out they were just outriders.
12. Took a dip in the sea and got sunburns - mission accomplished.
13. Had a peacock cross the road in front of our bike, which, after hundreds of cars, bikes, people, cows and pigs of all colors and creeds, was a welcome distraction.