We left Queenstown and drove a pretty drive to Te Anau which is the town nearest the Sounds. Typical NZ town by a lake mainly hotels/motels/cafes/shops/trips - properties apart from hotels are single storey. Again we noted many cows and deer in the fields en route. We have found that particularly sheep and cattle are very crowded in their fields, with empty fields next door. The number of fields with deer surprised us. Our first day in Te Anau we drove to Milford Sound and as normal in the Sounds the rain came down. Again distances are major - just to drive from Te Anau to the Sound was 2 hours. Great views of mountains on the way. The final descent was via a one way tunnel (traffic lights at each end) and then a 5 mile journey down a steep winding road into the Sound. The benefit was the number of waterfalls we viewed, the problems was seeing the perspective or distance. We decided not to go on the boat trip due to the poor visibility. We sat in the Milford Sound car park munching our sandwiches as the rain threw it down outside- reminded me of our usual UK summer holidays!

The journey back was in continual rain which marred the views. The next day we drove to Manipopuri to catch trip to Doubtful Sound. You catch a small pleasure boat for about one hour, in our case due to high winds, on a bumpy ride thru waves and spray on the lake, then you reach an inaccessible (by road ) land mass where a bus drives you for an hour over to the Sound thru incredibly dense tree and fern forests. You arrive at the Doubtful Sound where a larger three storey boat takes you on a 3 hour journey in the Sound. The weather worsened from just windy and rain to wild stormy driving rain in the Sound. Peggy was busy fighting the swell and bouncing around. We reached the mouth of the Sound and went out to a small island covered in Seals. After turning around we diverted into one fiord and for about 10 minutes the weather improved. It became still sunny and calm so we spent these minutes gazing at the maze of waterfalls. Unfortunately the rain and wind returned as we went back to the landing stage after 3 hours of being bounced around. We caught the bus to the other side and then the boat back to Manipouri to eventually find dry land and relax!! The area around the Sounds is Fiordland National Park - to give some idea of distances - this is one of many NZ National Parks, but this one alone is the same size as Wales.

We had changed motels from the Bella Vista (one night) to the Fiordland Motel which is a 1970's type place - its well laid out and the first and only to have a socket to charge electric toothbrushes!!

One thing we have learnt is the problem of stoats here in NZ- The initial settlers brought in rabbits for food, but when these overran the island they brought in the stoats, now these are vermin and have destroyed in many areas all the original wildlife and birds ( obviously particularly the flightless birds)- so major culling exercises are in hand. Another noticeable aspect are the crickets - everywhere outside the cities or towns there is the incessant noise of them.

When I bought petrol in Te Anau it was like times gone by - chap actually served the petrol and his wife took the money in the shop. Also similar to England in late summer virtually every road is being re-tarmaced- so every five to 10 miles you came across a restriction to 30 or 50 kph thru a half a mile up to a mile of either rough road or newly spread tarmac and stones.

We drove from Te Anau to Haast. The drive was very enjoyable, if long , thru Queenstown up a very steep tortuous climb onto a glorious drive on the Crown Range road ( a minor road ) via Cardrona to Wanaka. Lots of great driving winding roads thru mountains and valleys in glorious sunshine. Stopped at Wanaka for lunch and to buy Peg a camera - mine broken on the Sound trip). Wanaka is a very attractive pleasant town on the lake surrounded by Mountains, which are used by hikers in summer and skiers in winter. Continued on thru Mountains completely packed full of ferns and trees with many waterfalls to Haast. If there is place not to stop, Haast is it! lt is like a dismal seaside town in England on a wet winters day!! Stayed at Collyer House B&B which was the most expensive place, including some cities, that we stayed at - had to shut all windows and doors by sunset till sunrise as mossies were rampant!

Drove to Fox Glacier -very clear day so we had had a great view from one side of the valley of the Glacier and then drove over the river and up the valley, so we could park up and walked up over, or in Peg's case, thru streams (somewhat soggy cold feet), to the Glacier. The Glacier is very blue in colour due to oxygen particles.

We then drove onto Franz Josef which is about 1 hour on. Had a quick bite and then drove to the Glacier car park and walked for about an hour to the Glacier. The walk was ropped off due to the river diverting, but we had been advised by Essex lady in Christchurch to crawl under the rope and walked all the way to the Glacier. Again clambering thru streams and reached the glacier with the blue colour which was not so dominant as Fox. Also both ends of the Glaciers were strewn full of rocks and stone.

We stayed at Franz Josef in a very good new motel - 58 on Cron.

We drove onto Mapau (via Greymouth and Reefton) at the edge of the Abel Tasman Park. There we stayed 2 nights at B&B rec by R&D. very nice couple Murray and Diana who have decided to stop the B&B business and retire, so we were the only people. Our one day there was to drive over the Abel Tasman National park. We walked for about 2 hours on the coastal walk to a beach to have lunch and then back again ( the full walk is 4 days and you have to book as the accomodation is in shacks. We encountered quite a few young people with full backpacks obviuosly doing the full walk !). Nice sunny day but the walk was thru forest of ferns and trees so we were out of the sun most of the time. The area is both fruit and wine growing. So at this time of year lots of work for backpackers. Still having difficulty as thinking we are in summer with autumn fast approaching!

Next day drove to Kaikoura. Excellent drive via Queen Charlotte drive from Havelock to Picton. Really fantastic views of the Marlborough Sound and Mountains behind (including the Queen Charlotte walk which Nash did over 5 days by herself). Had lunch at Montana Winery and on via very brown fields and mountains to here. The only greenery were the vineyards! This typical of NZ where, until we arrived, had had a very dry hot summer.

Great Motel here called the Waves in Kaikoura- the rooms have everything. Unfortunately weather has turned and the Whale watch boats are not sailing -seems okay on land but rough at Sea.