0400 The deep thrum of big marine diesels on a pusher unit attached to an upriver barge woke me as it crawled past going upstream, people yelling at each other over the blare of the Congo music and a massive searchlight picking out the bank. It also woke the colony of weaver birds in the tree above us; plus the locals, their hens, pigs and ducks - so at 0520 I admitted defeat and got up.

Emerging in the half light I was informed I had a mosquito on my forehead - quick slap and it was a dead mosquito, but blood all over my forehead - so obviously didn't get that one in time. The mossies are worst at dawn and dusk and despite the foul smelling "insect repellent" and attempts to cover up, they are still zapping ankles and wrists on a regular basis.

The boat is also taking its toll on passengers and crew. The crew's least favourite job is having to bail out the bilges on a regular basis (with a cut down plastic jerrican). I heard it being done at 0200 this morning! The need for this is probably explained by the fact that everything on this boat is held together with nails and since the wooden planks flex and nails allow movement, you then get leaks. No-one appears to have heard of screws. Even the small catches on doors and cupboards are attached using nails - usually too large, which are then either bent back or left sticking out to catch on things (and people).