Flew out of Delhi to Bagdogra and arrived half an hour earlier than scheduled - a pleasant surprise. Met by the driver from the Elgin hotels group (who have arranged our tour around Darjeeling, Gantok and Kalimpong) and started climbing the mountains towards Darjeeling.

The weather was quite foggy in places but we had good views. Lots of traffic on the road and we had to squeeze past each other at times.

Stopped at Kurseong for our first cup of Darjeeling tea and momos - lots of flies!!

Arrived at the Elgin hotel which is an elegant colonial historical building. It has lovely well maintained relaxing areas on the ground floor and the room are spacious and well appointed. We were welcomed with a cherry brandy (tasted like my cough medicine) and a silken khada (scarf) which is draped around your neck.

We both changed rooms as our first ones were bang up against another building - so no views and worse still no fresh air.

Got into the shower and just after I was soaped up the water went down to a trickle and stopped. Fortunately I had rinsed my hair. Draped myself in the convenient towelling bathrobe (all soapy) and peered round the door to see if any hotel staff were around (as no answer on the phone). I finally had to pad down the hallway and locate a staff member. Sorry, we have to turn on the pump now - wait 5 minutes. As I was cold and wet they brought up two large buckets of water (one hot and one cold) so I was able to rinse off.

Had good dinner and also a lovely night's sleep as it is nice and cool up here.