15 Nov - 17 Nov: Over 3 days we visited most of the major temples that our visitor pass covered. For us, the main highlight was the second day when we hired our own bicycles and set off to explore under our own steam. Stopping off wherever we thought looked interesting, we got much hotter than we had done in a tuk-tuk, but we seemed to have more interaction with the locals. Cambodia is more tiring than Laos and up to now had suffered in our eyes by direct comparison - today for the first time we felt we had got to grips with it.

On our 3rd day we visited 2 of the more remote sites, and consequently spent most of the day either in a tuk-tuk or cramped together on the back of a motorbike. The carvings that we saw in the afternoon (in the river bed, with water flowing over them) were quite impressive. In the evening we had our best meal in Cambodia - dishes based on fish from the nearby Tonle Sap river. Italian baked fish, and a fish / coconut curry, were delicious, and a crepe suzette rounded the whole thing off nicely. Once again, draft Anchor was $0.50 a 'pot' - thirsty travelling demands refreshment of this calibre (and preferrably of this price).