We had 2 long bus journeys as we travelled up from the beach to PP, and from there onto Siem Reap. This gave us an opportunity to chronicle the things which can be carried on the back of a motorbike in Cambodia (in addition to the driver): 1) nothing (unlikely) 2) 1 passenger 3) 2 passengers 4) 3 passengers 5) 1 passenger and 1 bag of rice 6) 1 passenger and a ladder 7) a mattress (driver sits on this) 8) 1 passenger with bowl of fruit on their heads 9) 1 passenger with large (1m) wickeer basket 10) 2 wardrobes (there was a convoy of about 6 bikes, all carrying 2 wardrobes each) 11) a passenger on a bag of rice, plus an extra bag of rice for you (driver) to carry 12) a large sheaf of wheat 13) a dartboard on an esky

Cambodia is dirty and dusty. Everything you seem to do involves getting dirty (including adjusting the air nozzle on the bus - which resulted in lots of soot dropping on us). Also, the cows here are even more indolent thatn those in Laos; today we passed one sat on the edge of the highway, with its bony rump jutting out onto the road itself.

The entertainment on the bus was the worst yet. For the first 2 hours we had the obligatory VCD karaoke. But after that came Cambodia's answer to The Chuckle Brothers. There were howls of laughter from the rest of the bus, so perhaps you had to be Cambodian to get the gags. We checked into the 'Happy Guest House' and another day was pretty much done and dusted (certainly dusty, at any rate).