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Drove out of Tabriz and headed for the mountains. The area northeast of Tabriz is very green and lush, and misty valleys. On the way up there we tried to get some diesel, but the locals have special cards that they have to put in the pump for it to work, and a couple of places we stopped wouldn't let us have any. Eventually we found another truck driver who let us use his card, and a petrol station who would let us have some. Petrol is extremely cheap here but only if you can get it.

It took us all day to drive to Masuleh. It is a weird town built on a steep hillside. We are staying in a house that someone vacated for us (!). We are sleeping on our mats on the carpeted floor, and the room has a bathroom with a shower and everything, and also a small kitchen. Steve was a bit annoyed that he had been off organising rooms for everyone and quite a few people upgraded to a nice hotel that is in town.

Two nights in masouleh, and six weeks done on the 18th - one third of the trip gone already! Today we had an easy day, walked around and up and down the town for a while and saw some of the waterfalls nearby - the rivers are all fast flowing at this time of year with snowmelt. We bought some snacks and sat on the truck this afternoon for truck security.

For a strict muslim country the women seem to be quite a bit more visible here than other muslim countries. For a start, you can actually see them around the place. We barely saw any women in Egypt or Turkey, but they are all over the place here and many have their hair showing even if they are still wearing a scarf. The dress isn't too conservative yet either, and my huge coat feels like a bit of overkill. People are very friendly and keen to know where you are from and if they can help you at all.

Tonight for dinner we went down to the big hotel and had fish with rice - a whole fish, fried. They have these different flavours of non-alcoholic beer here - the pineapple is my favourite so far.

Shane and I trekked back up the hill and had a cup of tea and a water pipe with Terry and John, orange flavour this time. It's a tough life.