Sleeper train, tuk-tuk, double-decker coach and a taxi and we've made it to Laos!

Did you know that Vientiane is the capital of Laos? It has a population of about 400,000 but is very laid back and relaxing. Apart from the mess caused by a new water system being put in near our hotel, Vientiane is clean and tidy. A blue sky with white clouds is visible during the day, which is not the norm as far as capital cities are concerned from our experience so far. It reminds us a little of Windhoek in Namibia.

The sleeper train took 13+ hours to arrive at Nong Khai from Bangkok, then the tuk-tuk took us to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge where we crossed the Mekong river in the coach. The taxi ride is about 25 km. to the capital.

Dinner yesterday was very exciting. We were overlooking the Mekong at sunset, then as we finished our food [accompanied by John and Cynthia, a couple from Kingston, London we'd met earlier in a French cafe!] a tropical storm struck. The lights flickered and went on and off in the restaurant as the wind drove in the rain. It was an open air restaurant! Waiters tried their best to put up a sheet to protect us and we sat it out as the capital was plunged into darkness.

It's hot and humid here. Infact these weather conditions are the most difficult to live with so far on our journey. Even the dry heat of New Delhi at 45°C is easier on the system.

16th June

We're back in Vientianne having spent three nights in Luang Prabang.

Yesterday was very exciting. After breakfast we crossed the road to catch a minibus. We'd joined a group going on a boat trip up the Mekong to some caves. $6 each for a half-day trip! We got our monies worth!

First stop a 'whiskey village', it's just distilled fermented rice. Very illicit-looking equipment. A 10cm slice off the bottom of an oil drum is on the ground and is the recepticle for the fuel - wood. A topless oil drum is placed on the burner and contains the liquid from the fermentation. Another 30cm deep section of a drum acts as the condenser. A pipe sticks out from the side somewhere and the alcohol drips out. The villagers have this technique down to a fine art - the product is very strong and being offered some straight from the pipe provides a somewhat hot, head spinning liquor!

The same expertise could not be said for the boat.

The first we saw of it was when it gracefully drifted past our group as we waited on the banks of the Mekong River. The boatman couldn't start it. Third time lucky and he docked safely by the tiny pier. We all embarked and sat as comfortably as we could on the very hard seats. A few minutes passed then a few more. A group of children gathered on the bank to watch us. Their gazes seemed to be saying, " Look, they've trapped another load of tourists on that leaky boat!"

A loud voice boomed out in front of us, " Call this a tour - how long do we have to sit here?!" A Spannish gentleman was getting rather annoyed! In fact some fuel was being fetched, but there was no explanation - a trait of this outing!

Judging by the rate at which water was leaking into the vessel, we started off just in time - assuming a bilge pump would also start its urgently needed work.

A little boy blows into a pipe coming out of the top of the engine and we're off!

The Mekong is about 500m wide at this point, not very deep but has a strong current. The surface of the water is a multitude of whirls, spirals and streaks as the many currents meet and jostel each other. It looks too dangerous to fall in.

The boatman meanders along to find the safest route. Past sand banks, large rocks and an island.

Noises from the engine are not very encouraging, we wonder if enough fuel was poured in. It stops. After a few attempts to start, it stops for good and we're drifting quickly towards some very unfriendly looking rocks.

The boatman picks up an oar and attemps to control our out-of-controlness! No explanation. No panic amongst the passengers which is good. You never know if you're going to panic if set adrift in a powerless boat on a surging river like the Mekong in the middle of a tropical forest in Laos.

We quietly confer with other passengers and agree that we'll probably have to be found by another boat and towed to safety. A large boat appears and motors past. The bilge pump was working, but now the water is just below the planks that form the floor of the boat, so a rescue sooner rather than later would be wise.

Another boat approaches and slows and comes alongside. A mid-river transfer is coming up. As I place my right leg gingerly across the sides of both boats they begin to move. If I carry on, the uprights of the two boats will act as a vice and trap me halfway across. With the horrific image of me being sliced in half I quickly withdraw.

We're all across and watch as our boat drifts away: one passenger remaining - the boy who blew into the engine when we first set off on this adventure.

The passengers in our second boat explain that there are only six of them because their boatman said it was only safe to carry six. Well our group makes the total about fourteen. So, we're definately going to sink then!