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Well, what a lovely surprise Ponta Delgada was and the whole island of San Miguel, Azores. We had very little expectation of the place really, thinking it would be much like Cape Verde, a bit run down…. Slightly seedy. Not at all. It was really fabulous and we could easily spend a week or two here and with pleasure.
We were lucky with the weather. It was really sunny most of the day. Not terribly hot, maybe 19C but with the sun feeling hotter than that when it was shining. We came ashore just after breakfast thinking that if the weather looked ok we would take a taxi tour to see some of the volcanic lakes. However, the taxi wanted 120 euro for a 3 hour tour and we then noticed we were standing outside a car rental office right on the dock and they were advertising a Clio for 30 euro for the day fully insured. No contest. We took the car.
Ponta Delgada itself is an achingly pretty and scenic port. Lots of cobbled streets and pedestrianised areas. Many historic houses and churches in the old Portugese style with decorative stone and pebble work and iron balconies. Very like the old parts of the Canarian towns or the old part of Lisbon. Well worth a big explore. The waterfront itself was very lovely. Quite a few yacht berths and some very ice yachts.
We had a slight struggle to get out of Ponta Delgada (can't get used to actual map reading!!!!) but were soon away and motoring up through vividly green hills. The islands are all volcanic in origin and you can see the ancient cones. The group are surrounded, indeed survivors of, ancient eruptions and many people believe the Azores are the remnants of Atlantis or Lyonesse, those ancient lost civilisations. It could be. There is something of that about the place.
Our first port of call were the green and blue lakes at the base of a huge caldera to the north west of the island. We climbed up and up and up to reach the caldera rim and it was a massive one. The explosion that took the top off must have been devastating but it was before recorded events. The lakes were a beautiful sight . In fact they are the same lake, split by a road bridge and differing colours due to depth and mineral content. We stopped a lot for photots.
Then on down to the sea at Medeiros, a gorgeous place with giant sea stacks just off the shore standing like stone fingers against the surf. They were so sheer, so sharp, they looked as though they had been carved by a giant knife. The beaches were black sand. Jet black. Not dirty grey like say Tenerife in the north but absolutely black….. quite stunning but I think not good for a white bikini.
We then continued around the northern coast road admiring the very many plants that thrive in these springlike conditions. Hydrangeas, bird of paradise, lilies of all sorts, alplines, primroses…. So many and then lots of tropical too. Another plantsman's paradise. I took a couple of sprigs of flowering succulent from near the beach.. Don't know if they'll make it but will give it a go.
We eventually turned inland again and climbed up more hills to another sunken caldera with the Lagao do Fogo (Misty Lake I think) at the bottom. Again a stunning sight and we were so lucky to see it all in such bright clear weather. There were lots of birds up here and at one point we came around a corner and there was what looked to be a massive eagle sitting in the road with some sort of kill.
We turned back to Ponta Delgada and dropped the car off and then set off to explore the town on foot. So picturesque. We visited the parish church of St Bartholomew and had a drink in a lovely sunny square nearby. Trying to find wifi to facetime the girls but it wasn't really good enough so we called them instead. All well.
Very few shops open as it was a Sunday but there looked ot be some very good ones. We met Mick, Barbara and co who'd come on a couple of my excursions and they bought us a beer of thanks which was nice. We've met some really nice people on the cruise.
Walked back to the ship still trying for wifi but nothing at all of any use.
This is the last port of our fabulous voyage and I'm so glad it excelled itself and wasn't in any way a damp squib. Shall need to look up how to get here because it's such a lovely place I'd love to visit again for longer and see some of the other islands in the archipelago. Very much nicer than the Canaries and so unspoiled.
Went to the sailaway - our last. Some people shed a tear and I walked away feeling my eyes prickle up. Bob was having his nap so he wasn't with me for a while and then thank heavens he arrived! I might have got a bit maudlin otherwise. Anyway, we sailed along the south coast of the island as the sun set and then headed north east from it towards the UK.
We'd been invited for pre-dinner drinks up in Mick and Maureen's suite, so we got dressed and went up about 730. In time to see the sunset from the balcony. Such a nice evening. We went down to dinner in Glasshouse about 830. Bob and I shared a three dish starter of tempura prawns x 3. Then I had the calves liver with creamed cabbage which is just divine and Bob had the lobster sandwich. Along with 2 bottles of Chilean cab sauv. That was it LOL. The prawns have to be seen to be believed. I have a picture to go up but they are as big as my hand and the tempura batter is just fall-off crisp and thin.
Fell into bed about 1130. A great day. Now for our last three days at sea…..
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