Hi Everyone,

This is my second attempt to post this blog as I typed for ages yesterday only to be kicked out by the system just as I was about to finish up. Let us hope it doesn't happen again!

You will recall that our merry little band had arrived safely at Pak Beng in Laos after a days cruising down the Mekong River en-route to Luang Phrabang. The previous night we had purchased a bottle of Laos whiskey, I'm not sure whether this was to celebrate our journey together or just to keep out the cold but we had it with us. We were up bright and breazy to have breakfast which had been ordered the previous evening along with our packed lunches for the forthcoming days boat trip. The accommodation had been really good and although the electricity was still not on when we left there had still been enough hot water for a morning shower so I had no complaints at all. We were not quite so lucky with the second days boat as we had plastic patio chairs as seating, however, we still had our Teddy Bear cushions so all was not lost! Again we had a lovely day, albeit, as you can see from the photo, the day had started off cold and grey. This soon burnt off when the sun broke through and we started to warm up. It was not as hot as the previous day but it was still beautiful. I have commented before on how fast the Mekong River runs and how it churns over rocks etc. Now we were very close up to the water as the boats sit very low and you can see great whirlpools and mini rapids as you sweep along. The 'pilot' has to make various manouvres to negotiate the craggy semi-submerged obsticles and at one point we could actually feel and hear the bottom of the boat scraping over one such set of rocks and felt the boat heel over the our right as we passed through this section.

We were eventually rewarded with stunning scenery, giant limestone castes rising from the waterline all around us and the most fantastic sunset as we pulled into Luang Phrabang. Out came the whiskey which had all but gone by the time we moored up, it slipped down a bit too easily, maybe! It was a perfect conclusion to a journey which I had looked forward to for such a very long time, I was so glad that our group had ignored the 'Professor of Doom' and stuck to our guns, completing the trip we set out to make. We soon found somewhere to stay, Jim and I did exchange glances as a twin turbo prop plane flew overhead leaving tyre marks on the roof tiles, but we were not to worry as the planes don't fly until about 9.00 in the morning and finish up around 5.00 or 6.00 at night. Having arranged a meeting time we headed out to town for some supper.

What I had not heard about was the most amazing night market. You will no doubt be fed up with me mentioning the markets but I am yet to see a more colourful display of quality goods, it was really outstanding and I have every intention of returning to this part of the World in the future if only to buy more of the bits and pieces. We had mis-timed everything because one thing we had not taken into consideration was that there is still a curfew in existance here. Therefore, everyone is 'supposed' to be in by 12 and so the stall holders were packing away at 10pm . Regardless we had a quick mooch around and we did have several days in which to return and take full advantage of what was on offer.

Luang Phrabang is the ancient 'Royal Capital' of Laos and has an abundance of history and mixed architecture, it is also very different to Thailand. The buildings are very French Colonial and the people are definately less friendly, in my judgement, not in a rude way but not quite as open or welcoming (not that I'm blaming the French for that you understand!). Maybe this is because there are a lot of travellers here and tourists from Asia and beyond, perhaps the Laostians still feel invaded, I think I could understand that one.

The town is lovely and has a very peaceful feel about it, it is still busy and bussels with local people going about their daily business. I spent the first day simply wandering around, firstly with Marcia and then later on my own. There is so much in the way of artwork and galleries you could go from one place to another for days on end but there is without doubt a different attitude here and you can feel it.

Later at the night market we had to work out a distraction strategy as it was Marcia's birthday and to prevent her buying a scarf she had seen we drew here away whilst Marika set about buying it for her as a present from us all. I had already purchased a card so now it was Marika's turn, she is typically Finnish with blue eyes and very blonde hair, so using these assets to her advantage coupled with a very disarming smile and grin she drives a hard bargin. Successfully purchased we headed to a restaurant and presented the said present and card and then went onto have a very pleasant little celebration meal and a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

5/12

Jim, Rosarie and I are booked on a visit to Chiang Se waterfall, reputed to be one of the highlights of this area and one of the best waterfalls to visit with a Bear and Tiger santuary close by. We travelled in a mini bus and arrived at the visitors car park to be greeted by upwards of 40 such mini buses all lined up around the drop off area. It looked a bit commercial but this commercialism on a small scale compared to other places I have visited. The road is lined with stall holders selling everything from crafts to fast food Asian style, soups, banana fritters, frest fruit, peculiar dumplings filled with meat or fish, which I am yet to try. Ignoring the temptation to buy even more gifts and presents we walked to the bear sanctuary which although quite small is set in the trees and provides a valuable quality of life to these unfortunate animals. All of the Bears had been rescued from captivity of one kind or another and spared from the mistreatment they had previously suffered. I would quite happily meter out the same punishment to their previous owners and hearing about what happens to these beautiful animals is appalling. The Bears appear happy and content and at least there are a lot of things for them to do and exercise their brains. We had arrived at feeding time and saw how the keepers place food in different places and leave a scent to encourage the Bears to forage for food as they would in the wild, it was all cleverly set out and put together, mind you when you saw the animals moving huge peices of wood with the minimum of effort, you would not want to be in between Bear and food at the wrong time!

To my absolute delight I looked up to a little bridge on the left side of the enclosure and saw Helen and Cary from England who I had last seen as we said 'Goodbye' at Christchurch airport all those months ago in New Zealand. I had no idea they were in Laos and certainly it was purely by chance that they happened to be visiting this area at the same time as me. It was great to see them again and made a good day even better, we caught up on a few things, they are on their homeward journey and by the time you read this they will be in England enjoying Christmas with their families having flown via Hong Kong.

We made our way up to the waterfalls via an easy walk along a path and track followiing the course of the water, it is a very pleasant walk through the woods. The falls are separated into three different smaller falls, more like steps with with pools of turquoise water, before arriving at the main falls which cascade down a sheer gorge and tumble into another larger area with a foot bridge across. The sun was just cresting the top of the fall at that time so it was not the easiest of photo to take but I snapped off a couple of decent shots before we decended to the central pool where Jim, Rosarie and I wanted to take a dip. It was a tad cool but once we were in it was not actually all that bad. The areas was now flooded with Asain tourists, many from Thailand, hence the mini buses, none of them were swimming but they were taking copious amounts of photos of the mad Western Ferang who swim in cold water during the winter. 'WE' had a good time and it wasn't actually all that cold, certainly not as cold as Angel Fall which could freeze the balls off a brass monkey (by the way that expression is not what you think it is, if you dont know what it means, do some research).

Having had a swim and had our lunch we retured to the mini bus for the short journey back to Luang Phrabang, I said Goodbye to Helen and Cary for the last time and headed back, it had been a very pleasant interlude in our trip and seeing the girls was an added bonus, indeed. It is a great place to visit and is very picturesque, I can see why so many couples go there as the setting at the top is actually very romantic (I know that's just my big 'ol softtie side coming out again!). Unfortunately we didn't get to see any Tigers, the enclosure where I presume them to be was deserted and devoid of life.

That evening we made an earlier visit to the market and discovered an alleyway where there was an abundance of barbeques all serving freshly cooked fish and chicken, pork strips and ribs, vegetables, rice, noodles etc. We sat down to a veritable feast all for so little money it was crazy. The fish is cooked in salt, or Soda as it is referred to here, which results in a crusty outer shell with really tasty flesh or meat inside, beautiful, I'm not so keen on the Eyes though!

I have reflected on how fortunate I am to be with these people and to be doing what I am, it was with such thoughts that I caught myself the following day as I was writing my journal under the shade of a huge tree in the grounds of a nearby Wat (temple). I try to find such places to write (other than coffee shops that is) as they are so peaceful. Jim and Rosarie have kindly taken on the responsibility of booking and organising for all of us to travel to Phonsavan, The Plain of Jars, which left me with time to kill, hence I had come to this spot to write. As I sat in the cool of the shade I could appreciate the peace and atmosphere of places like this and watching the various parties of people flitting in and out I thought about how lucky I am to be able to just sit and take all this in. Tourists were coming and going, snapping this picture and that before scurrying onto the next venue under the watchful eye of their guides. It struck me that my journey, although busy, has not been all that hectic and here I am taking the whole day if I please to just sit and think and write and being able to take in the same sights as these people without having to rush off somewhere else or being hurried about it all. It is like sitting at your favourite street Cafe watching life pass by infront of you the difference being that 'You' do not have to rush off to do anything, you can continue to sit there and just watch, contemplate and enjoy.

See you soon,

Chris