Hi Everyone,

This is the end of one section of my trip and the beginning of the next. I finished my last day in Chiang Mai by meeting a true adventurer, a Kiwi named Ian who is currently cycling through South East Asia and eventually heading home to New zealand. We met quite by chance in an off the street eating house, the type which is quite open with the days food on display at a counter, take it or leave, no frills but really good tucker, whoops that's Australian! We discussed how he managed to carry so little clothes and on occasions having his bike strapped to the outside of a bus to get to where he needed to be. He will eventually arrive back in new Zealand a Country I will re-visit at some point in the not too distant future anditwould be good tocatch up with Ian again to find out how he got on. Sometimes these random meetings throw up some great stories andso it was with Ian. I admire enormously those who can travel so lightly and with such adventure in their viens. I'm not sure I'm quite ready for that at the moment but one never knows what is round the corner!

That evening I said Goodbye to my friends and was treated to a great night out and made up the third person on a poor little motor bike, well the locals do it! It was an exciting little trip I can tell you and my driver seemed to be oblivious to any rules of the road or which side we were supposed to be on, oh well we made it. I was treated to this meal, provided with enough beverage to enable me to endure the trip back to my guest house and then dropped off outside. I had all but packed but just had a few things to do and then I was ready for the pick up the next morning.

1/12

The day I had waited for has finally arrived, I leave Thailand with some regret but with a lot of excitement for I'm on my way to Laos. I am booked onto the 'Slow Boat' which goes from northern Border with Thailand to Luang Prabang in Laos over a two day period, following the Mekong river eventually arriving at the Ancient Royal Capital. I have harboured a desire to to do this trip for many years, I can not explain quite why, perhaps it has just been in my subconcious that so many terrible things have happened to these people, I just want to see it for myself. I have also read about some of the history of Laos, in particular a facinating book called 'Ravens' which was given to me by Phil in Brisbane. I finished it a couple of weeks ago and it is particuarly about the 'secret' CIA war in Loas and describes graphically the effect upon the Northern Tribes and the displacement of thousands of people. It is very sad and tells a very different story to the normally 'gungho' american Nam stories, it depicts the horrendous acts committed by both sides and does not try to answer all the questions. I finished the book and wondered whether the human race will ever learn, I suspect not, the complete and utter waste of human life apalls me.

I joined an interesting little group of people in a mini bus for a long long journey to Chiang Khong where I had previously visited whilst staying at Rai Seang Arun. There were a couple of great girls from north London, a guy from Kent and a German couple in the front, another couple of girls from Germany next to me and then Chris and his wife Lynn. It was all a bit of squash with bags on bags, a set of fire sticks (don't ask) which smelt of Kerosene (not sure how to spell that) and a driver who felt sick because of the smell! Ho Hum life is anythig but dull.

Chris and Lynn are a nice couple and I spent the majority of the journey talking with them. Chris is Australian and Lynn is from Thailand, they live in Cober Pedy, South Australia, so at least I knew that was and was able to appreciate where they came from. As it turned out we spent the next five days in one anothers company together with a group I seem to have been adopted by, Rosarie, Jim, Marcia and Marika. We had all arrived at Chiang Khong and stayed in a couple of locations but grouped together for dinner and breakfast. I did my usual thing and just started talking to Jim and Rosarie and immediately liked them. My accommodation was about 400 meters down the road and away from the others, I had a little triangular 'hut' with a thatched roof, bamboo base suspended over a creek type afair. Great for mosquitoes but not too good at keeping you warm at night. The window was a net curtain pulled across an opening with wooden 'bars' and nothing else and the door fitted where it touched, the mattress was a futon type base with a thick blanket. The saving grace was my pillow which apart from the bug type things was really comfortable! They generously provided a Mosi net so I immediately set about making my little nest mosquito proof and went for dinner.

I had expected it to be cold because of my previous experiences but, wow, this took it to another level. I slept in my sleeping bag fully clothed with the blanket over the top and my hat on ,again. The next morning nearly everyone was talking about how cold it had been but I knew it would warm up once the sun came through so it was only a matter of time. The recommendation was to purchase a cushion as the seats on the boat are supposed to be less than comfortable. So for 40Bht, less than a pound, I bought my self a nice blue quilted cushion with Teddy Bears on it! Hmmm. We were loaded into a people carrier and driven all of 50 yards to the Immigration office, stamped 'Out' and then boarded a narrow long boat and ferried across the river to the other side, to be seen by Immigration in Laos all of 75 yards away. After a protracted process we walked up to the main street, past another Visa control point and then loaded onto an open backed 'thing' and conveyed to the main boarding area for the 'slow boats'. I was in! I was actually in Laos. We had a long delay here and had to listen to a speil about how dangerous it was to travel by boat and how we would be robbed in Pak Beng, the first nights stop. However, salvation was at hand because there was a bus and a mini bus which would take us by road to Luang Prabang and save us a days travelling on the water. The journey would be at extra cost but would be far more comfortable and save an extra day.

There was not really any arguement for me, I was here to travel by boat and go down the Mekong river. No amount of scare mongering was going to change my mind and how glad was I when a couple of days later we caught up with some of those who took the mini bus and recounted how the journey took 18 hours not 8 as promised, the driver had consumed alcohol the whole way and was drunk as a skunk when they eventually arrived, the road was appalling and they had endurred a pretty bad time I think.

To my delight and pleasure the others had decided the same as me and from that point onwards we became a merry little band of travellers together. We got on the boat and with very comfortable big seats we had a very pleasant slow trip down the river, exactly what was supposed to happen. We had a wonderful day, sunny, warm and with facinating views. A group of lads were good entertainment, well most of the time, and were well on the way to oblivion when we arrived at Pak Beng. Far from feeling threatened it was quite pleasant. There were lots of guest house owners touting for our business but as far as robbers were concerned, well the most threatening indeviduals I could see were the little kids offering to carry your cushion for you. We stuck together and were rewarded by a nice lady offering us accommodation enough for all and leading us up the hill to a lovely guest house. Breakfast was not included but what do you want for 3.50p!!

To be continued.

See you soon

Chris