At 2300, after 150k, we stopped at the furthest point where aurora chasers are usually taken, past Skibotn, at the Finish border. The undulating mountainous Norwegian landscape gave way, almost suddenly by stark contrast, to the bleak flat Finnish lands. We'll not get those money shots of Lady Aurora but we're safe in the knowledge that, what we saw in the skies (on the flight here), will be etched on our minds forever. Around the bonfire, we sip hot chocolate an...

Our two hour journey followed the road, partially frozen and very striking fjords to our right, snow covered mountains everywhere; everything illuminated by the moon. We stop at a couple of progressively remote clearings but it's our second stop that's an isolated clearing whilst hauntingly picturesque; black pine trees silhouetting the silver sky, the moon reflected in the frozen road within feet of us.

The moment we boarded the coach at 2000, Anita - our Lyngsfjord Adventure guide - warned what we already knew; the skies were cloudy and the likelihood of the diva revealing herself, remote. We happily settled into a fascinating journey that took us a few hours into a more remote, dark location, heading far inland, lights of occasional vehicles passing, let's call it somewhere in the middle of the edge of darkness.