Sunday 17th January 2016
 
So in this month of January my family have birthdays as you may have read in earlier reports, today is Peter's. You will hear more about that later, but to my most wonderful partner, in travel and in life, Happy Birthday darling.

 After opening his cards, from family, friends and neighbours, which I've had hidden throughout the trip so far, Peter wants this birthday to go totally unnoticed by our fellow travellers - Mmmmmm that's going to be difficult.
Today we are moored by Espanola island and are heading to the part of the island called Cerro Brujo. It's another beautifully pristine beach. So after breakfast we get into the Pangas and meander along the rocky coastline looking at the wildlife for around an hour. The black Frigate birds are swooping above us, blue footed boobies are diving for fish all around as well as loads of huge brown Pelicans who are such terrific divers and at such speed, I swear they are successful every single time.
 
Eventually we do what's called a 'Wet landing' this, to the uninitiated is when the Panga takes us almost to the beach and we put our legs over the sides, minus trainers or in wet-type sandals, and jump into the very shallow water (always hoping you don't get a large wave come behind and knock you off balance, we've been lucky and never had a VERY wet landing) the waters always clear except for the churning of sand as the waves break and it's as warm as bath water at this time of year. Shorty wetsuits have only been worn on snorkelling adventures by very few and then really only for buoyancy or to keep the searing sun off backs.
 
We have a wonderful walk along this huge beach, sharing it with Sea lions, Marine iguanas and the gorgeously brightly coloured Sally Lightfoot Crabs. We see turtles swimming just off shore and I love to splash into the water near them and are immediately joined by a baby Sea lion who try's talking to me, heaven knows what it's saying but it's not a bit bothered by me and just twists and turns in the waves. Oh this is brilliant.
 
This afternoon we head after our special Equadorian lunch and siesta, to Kicker Rock a huge formation quite a way off the beach, in heavy seas. It consists of an enormous flat topped rock, maybe 300 feet high, with a slightly smaller pointed rock along side. There is a channel between the two around 20 feet wide and after our boat circumnavigated the Volcanic tower, the idea was to be dropped off at one end of the channel to snorkel and to be picked up at the other! These are huge, heavy seas with incredible currents and as strong a swimmer as I am, our guide wouldn't let me do it without flippers. I've never been able to use flippers as I'm a natural breast stroke swimmer and wearing them and going into automatic breaststroke action is no good for anyone in scary waters. I was fully flippered, mask and snorkel in place and attempted for a few horrible minutes, but in a flood of tears, more of frustration I called it a day and climbed the ladder back into the dinghy. Galapagos Seas 1 Lizzie 0 I then proceeded to help our pilot to watch and assist other travellers reboard as they tired at various points at the end of completing what I sadly couldn't. A fantastic day was had by all, but perhaps not 100% for me. But tonight would definitely make up for it.
 
I've ordered bottles of Bubbly for our group of 16 to toast the 'birthday boy!' I've organised the chef to make a cake for us all to enjoy for desert and Stefan - yes you Stefan! Chief photographer - is master of taking a photo or 2 for a very special memory of a birthday in Galapagos. Omar gives our final briefing about flight times and tips for himself and the crew !!!! So by the time our final dinner is ready, I've put out Peter's birthday cards, Crystal the lovely girlfriend of one of the Vancouver Island Swift boys, has arranged the whole group to sign a card with a Galapagos Tortoise on the front and with the stamp of Post Office Bay. A lovely thought. 
 
We enjoy a great evening, Peter is smiling through a frown, but I know quietly enjoying himself. He makes a great speech and thanks everyone for their good wishes and as our main course dishes are cleared, the bubbles are poured, the lights go out and Omar arrives, completely in his element, with the cake and sparkling candles. He wanders around the table, pretending to stop at every wrong male, whilst we sing 3 choruses of Happy Birthday. Finally Peter is allowed to blow the candles out as Ernesto, our fabulous barman/waiter, presents him with a huge Axe to cut the cake (pictures to follow!!!!) We sit chatting with Jan and Mitch a great couple from Nottingham and rest of the group slowly disperse and head to bed. A brilliant birthday night.