We arrived into Grand Junction after the best connection ever in Denver—adjacent gates with a Starbucks in between them—picked up the rental, and headed west, arriving at Capitol Reef National Park early in the afternoon. Following a brief stop at the visitors' center, we drove the 11-mile Scenic Drive to the end of the road, hiking the Capitol Gorge trail. Returning up the Scenic Drive, we detoured to the Grand Wash trail and hiked into the narrows. This still gave us time for a stunning close to our first day at the Sunset Point. Our basic plan for this wide-ranging Utah adventure was to hit as many of the starred attractions in our Moon Guide as we could, and the first day checked off several stars before we made it to Torrey for dinner and our first night on the road at the Broken Spur, an older motel that had undergone some degree of refurbishment. We were surprised to find how few services were available in Torrey, and we were more surprised to learn that "the season" had ended, causing most restaurants and some hotels to have closed for the winter.