Next morning we were entertained at breakfast by a totally inept chef, but trying his hardest to impress. We were out of video tapes, so went searching as we were heading off into the country for several days. We were sent from one shop to another until on the fifth try we had success, and while he had the correct tapes, he had never seen a video camera with an instant replay side screen. We let him have a play and he was really excited about it, asking lots of questions. Obviously video cameras are not common in this country.

Back on the road and onto Masvingo for lunch where Heather had a wander in the markets, Avan stayed back with the car and took in some people watching and some video footage. It appeared we were the only tourists in town. Heather bought a cotton hat with some local writing on it, we never found out what it said and we managed to lose it so never will, but it was often the subject of fits of laughter and pointing by the locals.

We then headed out to the ruins, The Great Zimbabwe National Monument. We had never seen anything like it, made from flat stone, stacked without mortar, yet solid and neat as. On the flat ground the structure consisted of a large circular compound, with on the inside various rooms, corridors and a conical tower, and on top of the hill a temple arrangement built incorporating the natural rock. One of the interesting things was that the stone used was not local to the area. One explanation for this that each time visitors came to worship or trade they had to pay an entry fee in stone?. The place had pretty much been looted and ransacked over the years of various explorers, but originally the site contained by all accounts fabulous wealth. Some effort in recovering stolen artifacts has begun and being displayed in the little onsite museum. Further archaeological digs have also contributed artifacts.
We had a great time poking around and being practically the only ones on site bar a couple of local tourists (who get in for next to nothing as it is their national monument).

We could not get accommodation near the ruins so pushed on until we came to a caravan park with chalets, the Kyle View Holiday Resort Oatland Farm. On the way our progress was blocked by a very large, very raucous, baboon who had taken up residence in the middle of the road and challenged us to do something about his attitude. We did, we sat and waited, occasionally leaning on the horn to no apparent effect, until he lost interest and moved off his own accord.

The Kyle Resort may have been at one time, but was now very dated and not clean and only single beds on offer. To top it off the waiter was very "Fawlty Towers" style (in fact all of Zimbabwe seems to be Fawlty Towers" when it comes to service and food) and would have had us in stitches if it wasn't so frustrating. We noticed huts made totally of grass and assumed they must have been staff quarters.

We were not long on the road again when we came on to a police road block, the police had happy faces, but all were armed with AK's and a machine gun was set up roadside. (the gun thing is also not uncommon in Zimbabwe). They were busy checking through cars, but when our turn came we were just waved through. Obviously they were not looking for a white person, too bad if we had someone hiding in the back or boot!

Moving on the landscape started to change from the scrub we had been used to seeing into land which had been cleared, but re growth was happening. The region was dotted with many more mud and grass rondavels and the occasional church. There were many children. We saw one girl (about 12 with two smaller kids) pushing a wheelbarrow with a bag of grain, miles from anywhere. We guessed this area may have once been where white farmers had been?

Had lunch at Cheredzi then out to a game park which had been recommended to us by the Blue Cottages. We were very disappointed to discover there were no vacancies, so moved on, looking for accommodation. At the next town we asked at a Post Office and it took three people to get one who spoke some English. She advised probably next place we might get in would be Birchenough Bridge. It was a fair distance, but had no choice, so pushed on.

Finally we reached Mapari Ranch in Birchenough Bridge. Heather asked for a double bed, no problem, paid and also for a Safari tour in the morning. Were taken to our room, a dormitory with six single beds and mosquito netting! Went to the dining room and ordered from the 70's menu, in a room with 70's decor. The meal was OK but did not get what we ordered as was now usual.

 A political conversation started at another table, One radical type said 'Once the dog has killed the first time , he'll kill again and again' then added for good measure something along the lines of 'and if any white people are listening, them too'. Given we were the only white people we fair tucked our ears in and decided it was probably time to retire for the evening. 

Back in our 'dorm' we flicked through some magazines, thoughtfully provided, only to discover they too were 70's.

We still managed to sleep well!

Footnote: Great Zimbabwe National Monument is UNESCO World Heritage listed.