We crossed into Nevada at Hoover dam which supplies both water and electricity to Vegas. The top of the dam wall actually forms the highway. Around this area there were numerous Indian settlements. Most were desolate groups of houses with old car bodies abandoned and no gardens. Soon after the dam we had our first taste of casino glitz in Boulder City but did not stop as we wanted to make Vegas.

We hit Vegas as night was starting to claim Nevada, but not Vegas. It was very hot and with the blaze of lights there really is little difference between day and night. We cruised up the strip then back again, a long journey time wise as the traffic is usually jammed, with much horn tooting and lightly clothed people leaning out of windows and sunroofs, yahooing. We stopped at Circus Circus to book in, but overhearing a conversation at the desk, it was obvious the place was fully booked. We walked to two other casino's, but they were outside our budget and we ended up settling on the Algiers, a small motel with no casino at only $33 a night, but still right in the middle of the strip. We were able to watch the bungee jumping off Circus Circus from our room. The room was quite adequate and the motel had a pool. By now it was about 10.30pm, however, this was Vegas so no problem getting a meal. We then spent several hours walking and looking around the casinos.

The next morning we had to return the car to the Avis office in Ceasers Palace. We thought we allowed plenty of time, but by the time we had negotiated the traffic, then searched the casino (each casino takes up an entire city block) for Avis we just made the 12 o'clock deadline. We had our laundry with us and directions to the launderette so off we set. Turned out to be about a 6 km walk, but we were treated to an entirely different view of Vegas, a very impoverished one. Heather was physically grabbed by a female beggar and while a bit nerve racking she backed off when Avan asked her to. While we waited for the washing we were fairly sure a very seedy sales transaction went down in the corner between two coloured men. We went and had lunch at Subway and observed a steady flow of children coming in but leaving empty handed. On asking the workers we were told they were homeless kids just wanting a glass of water. Avan then took the bus with the washing back to the motel and Heather went across to a shopping centre, returning later by taxi.

While we were in Las Vegas, most morning's we had breakfast at the Circus Circus Casino. Breakfast was a buffet affair which boasted 99 dishes for only $2.99 per person. Extraordinary!! The dinner buffet was pretty good too at only $4.99 a head. Of course it was absolutely expected that you would stay and gamble(we didn't). More importantly was to remember to tip the staff, while chatting to one lovely waitress we were horrified to discover not only do they not get paid, they have to pay rent out of their tips.

On the second night we decided to go to one of the tamer, raunchy shows and settled on Splash 11 at a cost of $41.25 ea at the Riviera Hotel & Casino. While booking Avan asked if the ticket master could give us good seats. He said yeah no problem, shuffled around a bit, then eventually gave us our tickets. When we turned up for the show we found the seats to be pretty ordinary, then the penny dropped, the time spent shuffling was waiting for a tip before delivering the mentioned good seats.

Our time in Vegas was very disjointed as there seems to be no difference between day and night. You can drink, gamble, get married, eat or see a show at virtually any hour. We also saw road workers working way past midnight and the crowds do not seem to vary in numbers. None of the casino's or any entertainment have clocks to remind you its time to go. The entertainment on offer is non stop and high profile. We enjoyed seeing Siegfried & Roy's tigers at the Mirage Casino, but didn't go to the actual show.

Well it was time to head to the airport and head home (24 hours via LA, Sydney to Perth). We checked in and made our way to the waiting lounge. Only in Vegas!!, the place was full of one arm bandits. Avan had some change left and thought he might has well get rid of it, two pulls and he hit the $100 jack pot, paid out in coin, and our flight was being called. Frantically gathering the coins he headed off to find a money changer, but the one on our floor was closed, and he had to go downstairs. Finally the money was converted and we boarded with some glares from the terminal staff. As it turned out someone else did not arrive and we had to wait for their luggage to be located and unloaded from the plane.