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We decided it was time for lunch at that point, so we hopped back in the car and went to the next town.We were lucky enough that this town at least had one restaurant to grab a bit to eat at (and go pee). I ordered one of the specials - fish with a butter sauce. It was really tasty and was light enough that I was fine with doing some more walking afterwards as well. We sat outside with our lunches for some fresh air and a Swiss backpacker shared our table with us. We all had a bit of chat.
After packing back in the car (Melanie and Lexi forgot to get the rhubarb pie they wanted), we headed on for our next place, Lóndrangar Cliffs. Once again, because we were a bit pressed for time (because we needed to have the car back by a certain time) we didn't want to do the full long walk all the way out to the cliffs, so we did the short walk near them.
There is definitely no safety measures in Iceland because we could walk right up to the edge of the cliffs and look out at the sea. There were a bunch of birds just sitting around on the cliffs, but no puffins. The walkway this time was at least a proper pathway that had been built and not just trampled dirt. It was such a lovely afternoon it was hard to get back into the car. We were hoping the next road would take us down to the cliffs, but it just stopped at a lighthouse, we gave up on the idea.
The next place we went to visit was a beach that was on my list, Djúpalónssandur Beach. We took a short walk to a look out over the beach to decide if we wanted to take the time to go down there. From what we could see it looked like a really nice, long beach, so we decided to spend time walking down through the rocks to get to it. Once again, it was a bit of a scramble to get down because it was just natural rocks to use as steps, and it was pretty narrow in parts, but the tall rocks on either side of the path were really neat. The walk to the beach through the towering rocks was almost as good as the beach.
We did get stuck behind an old person's tour as we were trying to get down, but as soon as we got out onto the back part of the beach (it was actually a long beach both side to side and back to front), we could start walking. The beach was just pebbles, no sand, but the beach was also covered with rusting metal pieces that were parts of a ship that had been shipwrecked just outside the bay and the pieces brought in by the storm.
We went and sat up on the beach near the waves, enjoying the sun and the soothing sounds of the waves on the pebbled shore.It was a just nice to sit there and enjoy the place. As we were looking out at the ocean, we realised there were strange patches of water. Both Melanie and Lexi had really wanted to see whales, but it was much too close in shore for it to be that. I was sure, because of the way the patches seemed to be moving, it would be fish. Lexi was such that it was either the wind or rocks under the water.
But they were swarms of fish. They moved and jumped as they got closer to shore, and along with the school of fish were a pair of seals! They were following the fish, but the did spend a bit of time swimming past the shore and looking at us sitting on the edge there. The swam the length of the shore, popping their heads up to look at us before following the fish around the corner of the bay.
We sat on the beach a bit longer before finally taking that cool trek back up to the car and on to the next place. We made a quick stop not too much further along at a place we thought might be an empty beach, but was just a set of deserted rock buildings. We decided that we might head out to the tip of the peninsula.
We turned right onto a road that didn't really seem to exist on the GPS, and it was paved for the first little bit, but only one car-width wide. Then it turned into a gravel road, still only one lane wide. It twisted and turned and dipped all over the place, and our car was small and had a very low clearance, so you could hear the gravel hitting the bottom of the car. We passed a couple cars in passing spots, and we could have turned right to go to the tip of the peninsula, but Lexi wanted to turn left instead down an even bumpier part of road that definitely didn't exist on the GPS.
At least we didn't meet any cars because there would have been no way to pass them at all without rolling the car off the edge of the road. You definitely don't want to pop a tire that far out with no cars around you and no way of calling for help. Eventually we came to the end of the road - a bright orange lighthouse. (The only other vehicle was a huge bus with giant tires almost as tall as I was). We got out to go and look at the cliffs. One of the cliffs to the side had an arch that was pretty cool.
It was a gorgeous spot, and we were eventually left there all alone. Again, it was probably pretty dangerous because there was sheer drops into the ocean off the cliffs and the grass on the rocks was still really slippery with mud, but it was worth the view for sure. We saw more birds, but still no puffins to be found. After taking out fill of the scenery and the BLUE blue ocean, I gritted my teeth as we bumped all the way back to the main road.
We decided instead of doubling back we'd take the road around the top part of the peninsula and cut back across near Gerduberg to get back to the main road to Reykjavik. We drove past some really small towns and some amazing waterfalls and even some more basalt columns. We were trying to make good time back to Reyjavik, but there was one place we had to stop at because it was so beautiful.
We approached Kirkjufell and the sun was just shining at the most beautiful angle on the strange mountain. We pulled over right beside the mountain because there was a waterfall just off to the side. The clouds were hanging onto the top of the mountain across the road from Kirkjufell. The waterfall itself is called Kirkjufellsfoss and was absolutely perfect in the evening light. We walked right up to it and stood beside it watching the sun shining through the water. It was really the perfect last stop for the trip.
And the stop was entirely accidental too, even though we found out later that Kirkjufell is a pretty famous mountain. We also found out that it's almost unheard of to get sunny weather along the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, so we were very lucky. Begrudgingly, we left Krikjufell and kept driving, taking the high pass over the mountains to get on the road back to Reykjavik. Even the pass through the mountains was beautiful with the sun, clouds and lakes.
We took the tunnel again back to Reykjavik and dropped our car off early enough that we were able to walk over to the fish and chips restaurant we'd gone to the other night and get our last meal of fish and chips. I had the fish this time and it was absolutely fantastic. We walked back along the water's edge again back to the hostel to pack for the last time. All in all, it was a fantastic day.
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