We will soon be in Alberta but just one more stop on British Columbia first. We have been carrying a Tumbler Ridge brochure around for months, the hiking there looks fab. Now it was time to find out how fab it really is. We were surprised to find how empty the RV park was and how cheap. There is a lot of evidence of dinosaurs in this area. Our first walk was down to where dinosaur prints had been discovered as recently as 2000. They were there but if you didn't know any better you would never have noticed them. Time for a saunter to a waterfall. Just like Clearwater this area has a lot of waterfalls (and trees). The biggest difference though is accessing them. The best falls are very remote - 60 km down dirt roads followed by a long walk there and back or you could take a helicopter ride! We had hoped to bag some summits next day but the hills are masked with that BC smoke. We chose two walks lower down but with awesome rock formations, the first walk was named 'Shipyard - Titanic' because of the rocks resembling ships and funnels. We drove 12kms down a gravel mining road which was bumpy enough then turned onto an unmaintained gravel road. We quickly turned around whilst there was room. The road deteriorated very quickly and it was too rough for us. Plan B - we parked up at a trailhead right on a paved road to hike to 'Quality mouth' and 'Quality Canyon'. Donna refused to pose next to the sign! We are back in mosquito land, the walk was through dense forest and we were attacked by those tiny biting monsters. Bear country again, no one else on the trail so lots of awful singing by both of us. Donna started humming a tune and I instantly recognized it as a piece of classical music used in a film - but what film, it was really bugging me not knowing the answer. We both hummed the tune repeatedly but the answer never came. Quality mouth - well it left a little bit to be desired as far as 'mouth' goes. Quality canyon was more impressive. To get the best view you had to descend a slope so steep that they had supplied a rope. Donna refused and I can't say I blamed her. She volunteered to wait for me, but splitting up with only one bear spray was not a good idea. The path certainly wasn't hiker friendly, it was either super steep up or down or flat with hordes of mozzies. Any one bringing children this way would be in for a difficult walk /scramble. With the hike done we made use of the super-fast internet at the visitor's centre and started to post a backlog of blogs. The sun came out early evening but the forecast was heavy rain tomorrow. Another one of Donna's superb roast dinners in a frying pan filled our bellies. The best that Tumbler Ridge has to offer is difficult to get to or smoked out but it was great to get the boots back on instead of driving all day.