The lady at the visitor centre back in Nakusp was a bit OTT when it came to being helpful and welcoming, but without her telling us about Clearwater we wouldn't have headed this way. We checked in at a KOA RV site close to Clearwater village and then headed up the valley towards Wells Gray Provincial park. We hiked to Moul falls, the view point overlooked the falls and after walking 3km we weren't impressed but then noticed people down below at the foot of the falls. We found the path down and got a great view but even better there was a path going behind the waterfall. I put on waterproof trousers and my new waterproof coat and went and got soaked. Walking behind the curtain of water with spray blasting out sideways was great fun (see video tab). Back at KOA we connected the hook ups and found we had another water leak. The intake system which the RV engineer took apart to fix the drain system now had water pissing out. We never connected the intake at the O'Keefe ranch (after the drain repair) as the water wasn't drinkable, we are now too far from Vernon to drive back to complain. The following morning, we went to Home Hardware which is a Canadian equivalent to B & Q but here the customer service is outstanding. We were looking for new fittings and a store assistant asked if he could help. I tried to explain the problem and he said if he could take a look it would be easier to understand. One of the difficulties in resolving the problem is the space between the bottom of the camper and the sides of the pickup box, it limits what you can fit and the space you have to work in. The Guy was great, he reckoned there was several solutions and he would try and find us the cheapest. He even told us where to park the truck so we could connect the hose and test the system to see if the leak was eliminated. Just 20 Bucks later and 30 minutes of the guys time we were fixed. We have found that most people in Canada are extremely friendly and helpful. With the leak gone we drove back into Wells Gray and hiked 1.5 hours to view Helmcken falls. The trail took us very close to the falls so we could actually look down them but the view was from the edge of a cliff 141 metres tall with no fence! After the hike back and a very short walk to Dawson Falls we drove to the viewpoint that most people view Helmcken falls from. The falls are more distant but you can look at them and not down them and the walk is only 5 minutes. A quick stop at the mushbowl rapids and then into clearwater for mosquito sprays, creams and coils. When the movie 'The African Queen' was shot (actually in Africa) it was reported that all the cast and crew were sick and suffered badly from mosquito bites except two. John Huston (the director) and Humphrey Bogart never drank the water, coffee or tea thus avoiding sickness, but a man's gotta drink. They only drank gin - copious amounts of it. So much Quinine oozed through their skin that the mozzies left them alone. Donna is considering applying the same practice as she seems to get eaten alive. Everyone keeps telling us the mozzies are particularly bad this year! The evening air seemed mozzie free so we christened our BBQ - yum. We checked out of the KOA site and headed back to Wells Gray and hiked up pyramid mountain. There were no other cars at the trailhead, so no one in front to frighten bears away! We went armed with our bangers, spray and rang our bells. The first 2 miles were in thick forest and despite it being at least 30 Deg C we daren't stop as the mozzies would have feasted upon us. At last we climbed up a more open path and there was a breeze. We could enjoy rests and views at the well-placed benches without being bitten. Great views at the top of distant snowy mountains. We really would have liked to climb one of these - Trophy mountain. The start of the path is however 8 miles up a track way to rough for a truck camper. We were still pleased though with our summit for the day. We didn't want to keep driving back to Clearwater to park up and sleep, we had spotted an RV park and golf course not far back down the road. We were expecting it to be full or very expensive or just for golf club members. It was busy but only because it was a Sunday and Father's Day. Lots of locals were there for a weekend of golf and would be heading home in the afternoon. We were treated to free burgers and hotdogs and got a great sunny pitch next to the creek. The weather has changed dramatically from wet and cold to scorching. We had a fire and a BBQ, both helped to keep the tiny flying beasties away - too late for both of us though. Donna reacts badly to insect bites, so far one of her hands has swollen up from bites, this was followed by a swollen foot and now the upper part of her face has swollen (from 5 or 6 bites on her forehead) and it is partially covering her eyes - Elephant wife!!! She will not let me take any close-up photos and has been sipping medicinal wine whilst holding a freezer block on her head. We aren't golfers but Monday morning the site was almost empty, the golf course was deserted and to hire clubs and play 18 holes was only 35 bucks each (£20), so we paid for another night and headed for the first tee. We got our money's worth, with a short lunch stop 18 holes took us 5 and a half hours! It was damn hot though, in the afternoon we had to lie in the shade between holes. It was par 73 for 18 holes, Donna got around in 259 shots and I managed 192! I lost 3 balls in the lakes but found 3 balls anyway. We were absolutely rubbish but it was great fun and a different activity for us. We got free beer and a tour of a monster camping trailer (5th wheel) from a Canadian couple who actually knew how to hit a golf ball properly. Their camper has a large sofa, enormous flat screen telly, floor to ceiling beer fridge, king sized bed, large shower, flush toilet, etc, etc - We wouldn't like to tow it or park it though. Another yummy BBQ and a keep away mozzie fire. A new day dawned and the swelling around Donna's eyes was even worse. Instead of venturing further into the provincial park (to hike) we drove back to Clearwater to see what the pharmacy had to offer to help Donna. The pharmacist took one look and immediately showed us the strongest Antihistamine tablets they sold. She knew what Donna was going through, she had moved here from Holland 3 years earlier and suffered the same. Now she has built up some immunity and her body doesn't react badly when she is bitten. We enquired about white water rafting for the following afternoon if Donna's swelling subsided. They hadn't got anyone else booked but we could go this afternoon. Donna wasn't really up to it but insisted I went. There were no guarantees that one of us or both of us (if Donna was better) could raft tomorrow. I could see the logic but didn't want to raft without Donna. We took the last hook up pitch at Dutch Lake RV park and with just an hour to go before the rafting trip went Donna twisted my arm to go. We have both rafted up to class 3 rapids but this trip included class 4 - wow was it rough. Even though I had already spent all afternoon on the river once we got back to Dutch Lake RV park I went for a swim in the lake. It was 35 Deg C today, cooking in the camper even in the evening was unbearable so Donna rustled up a roast dinner using the BBQ, a foil roasting tray and a frying pan (oh and a saucepan of veg on the camper hob as the Barbie wasn't big enough). Donna's swollen face improved overnight but she still didn't feel up to rafting. We hired a 2-man Canadian canoe and had an hour paddle around Dutch Lake which was so still and serene. For once we didn't have to wear waterproofs, we didn't even wear our buoyancy aids. Time to move on to new pastures, farewell Clearwater.