We are heading inland from Colombo, which sits on the south western coast. This is to be a six day trip and we've been warned about the roads! I know its early doors, but, the warning appears pessimistic as its new roads, tarmac etc and as we sit in our guide's, "Khan", short for Kantana Pathirage, new motor, progress is serene, if not a little slow! This part of the trip is to visit, what is known as, "The Cultural Triangle", presumably to recreate the success of India's Golden Triangle, which has become a tourist Mecca. This didn't quite work out as a Buddhist monk refused to join the party, more of that later. Day One is a travel day to Dambulla where we are staying at a lakeside hotel that clings to rock above it. The journey is over 6 hours, cue snoozing, reading, podcasts and spotting.. porcupines, kingfishers, mongoose, monkeys, elephants(albeit at an orphanage)... as well as noticing a change in temperature as it becomes less humid. As we head towards the hills you could be in The Caribbean, what with palms, bananas, coconuts, all in vivid, lush green hues. Sri Lanka is not India, the villages and towns are cleaner, industrious and not down at heel. The hotel location is gorgeous, just in time for sunset. The first part of the triangle is Sigiriya, translated that means Lion's Rock, which stands 370m high with 1200 steps to make it the top. it looks daunting and we are here at 7.30am to beat the heat, and the crowds! February 4th is the 66th Independence Day and it is a public holiday, everywhere is to be mobbed!
As with all archeology sites you are struck by it's age, 477-495 AD, and the audacity with which a king summons up thousands to get building materials 1000 feet up! In this case, King Kassapa, a rightfully insecure chap as he'd just killed his father and feared his brother's revenge. He'd also got over 500 wives, all of whom adorn huge frescos that decorate cave ceilings within the mountain. They are topless. He committed suicide when corned by his brother and his troops had deserted his side. His palace became a monastery, at which point the wives breasts were removed to protect everyone's modesty! Great views, good exercise and lots of respect for our forefathers, who got the impossible done!
Next stop was a village called Hiriwadumma. This had tourist trap, my pet hate, written all over it as we sat in an ox cart heading for who knows what? A sublime water journey through swampland set a course that took us through their lands, carefully cultivated, thoughtfully planted, irrigated and totally, sustainable, apart from wild elephants, who could trash all that we could see. There are tree houses dotted all over the area and, with a rota, they have an early warning system! We are shown how they desiccate coconut, which we then make into coconut roti by adding two teaspoons of salt water and about a cup of water. This makes a dough, flattened into a pattie which you cook over flame, delicious with a coconut chilli paste! Another water trip before an incredible lunch which is everything from the farm and the lake, awesome food that would have Rick Stein speechless!
Next, and final stop, is Polonnaruwa which was the capital when developed in 993 BC. It is incredible to walk on to a huge site that was only rediscovered, within the rainforest by the British in the mid 1800's. it is not extensively renovated, or maintained, but here it is, magnificent and significant. Hardly any tourists, but, lots of Sri Lankans, rightly proud of their cultural heritage. By now Khan has hit his straps and we are watching gangsta rap videos on his car TV screen! Will I download "Pitbull" when I get home?
Our third day out of Colombo is easily the best. A two hour drive from our base takes us to Anuradhapura. If you are a buddhist, were I religious I probably would be, this has been the centre of pilgrimages since 500 BC. It's centred on a stunning white stupa, a round pyramid, in effect, covered with streamers in Buddhist colours, where you come to make offerings. It is lit at night and must look magnificent. Again, you marvel at how these things were built and the scale of architectural ambition. It is usually the next ruler trying to out do the last, however, you must also carry the people with you in order to successfully construct your opulent legacy! The surrounding area is full of smaller stupa, summer palaces, places of worship and religious significance. There is also a two Century old Bodhi tree under which Buddha sat to pray and gained enlightenment. it is now supported by golden struts. The Sri Lankans visit this site often. Another two hours, back to where we started takes us to Dambulla rock temple, a remarkable series of caves that was developed by the monks in the 12th Century. The caves are full of Buddhas and leading dignatories of the time and the ceilings are painted with the stories behind the history of the site. I hope you look at the photo section, however, because of the light, it's very difficult to show you just how jaw dropping these caves are. This site is run by the Buddhist who didn't play ball with the Government, creating the Cultural Triangle, they retain all the income. Sri Lankans have an expression, "a Government lunch" to describe how vast amounts are awarded for renovation and yet very little appears to be spent on that purpose. Corruption, sadly, is everywhere in the Third World, however, I would say, less so here. The monk has used his new found wealth to create the first Buddhist TV/radio and newspaper, buddoganda!
Our final stop on the way to Kandy is at a herb/spice garden. This isn't something I would chose to do, however, an excellent guide has taken us through all of the herbs used both in cooking and Aryudevic medicine. A 15 minute shoulder massage as well as showing us how a herb can be processed to remove hair.. and I'm mildly interested, minus a patch of hair on my arm!
Kandy is the countries second biggest city, with 2m inhabitants. It is not a huge destination with only one true site of interest. It looks like a town lying on a lake in the Alps, beautiful mountain scenery. The hotel had an Indian restaurant and we met the chef in the corridor. Armed with his recommendations, and his eager to please attitude we had a stunning meal, everything cooked to perfection, great flavour, light.... result! The food everywhere has been fabulous, and extremely reasonable too!
What to do in Kandy? Not a lot, sari shops and gem stone stores, not really my thing. Khan has an arranged marriage and has just celebrated his first anniversary, it's a fascinating story, and, we get to watch his wedding DVD in the car! It's our first lazy day, not bad one week in. The point of Kandy is the Temple of The Tooth. It is a magnificent temple, housed within another temple and twice a day they briefly open a magnificent golden casket that houses "the" tooth. When Buddha was cremated, they found his left eye tooth, which had survived the inferno. Two centuries of adoration later, the venerated tooth lives in Kandy and tourists and locals flock to glimpse. It's bedlam! Hundreds try to get a photo of the open casket while hundreds file past, shoo'ed along by impatient monks.
We repaired to our hotel for a second sitting at their Indian, once more superb. It's interesting to be in a tourist hotel watching the clash of cultures, a table of 8 Chinese are incredibly rude and arrogant, the Germans are always right, those from the Middle East bring a gas stove and cook in their rooms....