Update from UNESCO, they didn't consider Old Bagan because they did not like the way the temples were being restored. Given that they gave a grant of $1m to restore 3,200 of them, you'd have to question their commitment! We suffer our first delay as a result of fog shutting Yangon airport which is where our connection is coming from. However, with nothing booked but R&R, who cares that it's in an airport terminal with no facilities! We've started dreaming of Laos, a former French colony with good coffee and patisserie, I digress!!
The airport we fly to is at He Ho, pronounced with deference to The Ramones, Hey Ho. As its at 3000' you have to ascend to land! It's a hours bumpy ride through the mountains and valley floor to Inle Lake. Our hotel, called Pristine Lotus is a spa, the area is very popular with twitchers, walkers and cyclists. We walked into town, population 700, which is on the side of the lake. The local restaurant is recommended and the laminated testimonials on the wall eulogise of the food and the manager, Louis. The food was great, as was the local wine made on the lake shores, and Louis was larger than life, celebrating British food and Liverpool FC!
Next day we take to the lake with our guide, AA. You navigate narrow glades, thinking they are irrigation channels but they are agricultural islands made from reclaimed land. Heading into The water mass you come across the famous fisherman who paddle with their legs. They fish from boats without engines, using drift nets. By putting the oar under their arm, outside the leg and inside their ankle, they paddle in a circular style freeing up both arms to feed out the net. Once done, they paddle back thrashing the water, Basil Fawlty style, to push the fish into the nets. Hopefully the photos will explain their skill!
The villages all sit on stilts, from post office to industry, monastery's to temples! The lake is 1-2 metres deep, boats flash up and down with outboards 6" under the water creating great plumes of white water. It's a relaxing day in glorious weather visiting silver makers, paper makers, blacksmiths, cigarette manufacturers, handwoven silks and the rare expensive lotus thread, everything being done on traditional machinery. You just pull up in your little boat, get out, they valet dock it......
One of the most important crops here is tomatoes! Why? Because they are harvested three times a year. It's weird to look at lane upon lane of tomato vines. The water is busy with activity and you can just sit next to the fishermen going about their business, the lanes of boats dashing here or there... They have paddle races and aquatic religion ceremonies in Oct/Nov, which must be sight to behold. Boats of 24 villagers vying for bragging rights as they paddle with outstretched leg building up a head of steam! The climate is dry, chilly, for the locals, in the morning and glorious once the sun has burnt off the early mist. To be honest, you can get templed out, despite their magnificence, and this tranquil day sitting on the water, watching an interesting style of life passing you by....
Another dinner with Louis and his wonderful team at Myat That Kuang, MTK for short. We ate some of his specials, his recipes, before he introduced us to the owner, cook, and all 7 of us had photos taken, before Louis took one of my shoes off, measured me up before presenting me with a pair of black, velour flip flops as a souvenir! We gave him all the Kyats we had left and parted the firmest of friends!