Day 4; checking out of Paro to head east. Our drive is through the mountains and every corner produces a fabulous view once navigated. We stop at a suspension bridge, bedecked in flags, that leads to a 14th century monastry. The flags are the five colours previously mentioned, however, they are prayers, Taras, the point being that the wind takes these prayers and spreads them over the land. The river below is quite low, however, there is some excellent trout fishing to be had, if you have the appropriate licence and are prepared to catch and release. We pass through the capital, Thimphu, heading for our next stay, Punakha, a route that takes us over the Dochula Pass. At Dochula, there is a modern temple celebrating the most recent King's marriage in 2011. Our guide describes the painting as cartoons, however, it is not extravagent characterisations, but, paintings of a modern Bhutan. There is also a temple of 108 chortens, these are small shrines, stupas, which represent the 108 dispositions that make us what we are, as well as a memorial to the 10 soldiers who lost their lives in a short (3 hours) war with India. While these things are all very well, the big deal is the view; we are at nearly 10000 ft and we have the most incredible panorama of the Himalayas. It's the first time the view has been revealed by the weather in 2018 and the view through binoculrs truly takes your breath away.

The mandatory pit stop for lunch before another hike to a monastry. This one is noticable because of phallus! They are everywhere, murals, shops, every house. The murals look more like graffitti, however, this is religion and every home should have one (don't they?) as they ward off evil spirits and the bigger they are.... Walking though arable land, seeing how hard farmers have to work to achieve subsistence engenders great respect. There are farm stalls everywhere on our route, we are introuced to a quartered, lengthways, cucumber that is dusted with chilli powder and salt, delicious, a great pallet cleanser, the home made chilli crisps also hit the spot! The walk takes us to a temple known as a fetility shrine. Bhutanese and international travellers visit this small temple for a blessing, there is a book of successful couples who've sent pictures of miraculously conceived offspring. Punakha used to be the country's capital until the King moved it to Thimphu in the mid 50s. It is an uninspiring town and we continue to follow the river being somewhat indifferent. However, all of that changes when you get your first sight of Punakha Dzong, a monastry that sits on the confluence of two rivers, male and female. Built in 1637, it was the scene of the most recent Royal wedding, I suppose you could call it a Buddhist Westminster Abbey, it's huge, two great courtyards and a huge temple that is full of chanting monks. It's a great sound. There is a monk going around the many rows as if with an attendance register. In fact, he's asking each monk how many chants they have done in the session. Once a certain number has been achieved, they can knock off for the day! There is a 9 day programme underway at the moment, as they are chanting for the well being of the country, an annual event. Each temple involves taking off your shoes, when you are wearing hiking boots this becomes somewhat tiresome by the 5th, or 6th of the day. After the highlight, the low light is a nunnery where my shoe removing patience was maxxed out, that's it for one day. We are ataying at a great hotel, Angelka choosing to go off piste from the usual tourist fodder. Perched on the mountain, it has a modern design, great rooms, views, vibe and restaurant; a great end to a wonderful day.

Day 5; waking up in this beautiful location, clear blue sky, chill in the air, high above the valley but, well below the vivid mountain tops. Breakfast al fresco and all is well in our world. By comparison to other days, today is lightweight. We head off down the valley, past the magnificent Punakha Dzong, before hiking up to a temple called Khansam Yuelley Namgyal Llakhang, let's just call it temple, which sits high above the valley. The views are stunning, we stand on it's fourth floor looking down on the most magnificent array of agriculture tendering, chatting with the people we are always bumping in to, two couples from Macau, mainly, and an Aussie couple, he has contributed photographs to over 40 geographic books, currently, he's working on Festivals around the world, now there's a gig for me! The walk started over a suspension bridge and now, the same point is to be the starting point of a rafting experience which takes us 13 kms down river. We get the usual briefing, safety, what to do when shouted at, high fives with paddles, and off we go. The river is not moving very fast and there is a strong breeze pushing us up river. After 13 kms, the five of us are knackered, comparing blisters and aching! The reward was an outdoor picnic looking at the monastry on the other side of the river. We drive back to Thimphu, our home for the next three days, listening to my selection of rock and pop as we've decided that there's only so much indiginous pipe music you can listen to!! It's started to rain gently, our first inclement interruption of our stay, Thimphu looks grey and going to bed at 8.30pm gives you an idea of traveller fatigue!

Day 6; As a city easy on the eye, Thimphu will not be easy to commend. Yes, it has a Palace, fortress, temples and a huge golden Buddha, however, it's a non descript low rise city. Nearly every building is 5 stories, identical window and door frames, ground floor is retail, top floor is the attic and the remaining four floors are apartments, all using an insipid colour pallette. It sits along a river course, beneath heavily wooded mountains, and, that's about it.

I suppose it's this environment that means there's a lull in expectation, however, the day did not disappoint. Our first visit was to The National Memorial Chorten. The locals come here for their morning constitutional, walking around the spinning prayer reels or clockwise around the stupa (memorial). Apparently, you drop your aging parents off on the way to walk as it's both exercise and very social! Next up, a weaving centre. This is where the national costume is made and you can buy all grades from lightweight to regal, along with the accessories, sash and handmade leather, embroidered boots, fortunately, none for a dog! I cannot emphasise how the wearing of the costme adds to the look, and feel of Bhutan. All Govt/Monarchy workers have to wear it, if you visit Govt offices, you have to wear it, if you interface with tourists....

Next stop, the huge golden Buddha, (Kuenselphodrang) that sits high above the town. A donation by two visitors from Hong Kong, this $100m + edifice, at 167 feet in height, has been under construction since 2004, made by foreign labour and still not finished. It's three levels of lavish interior, gold plated upper torso and 24 carat diamond forrid explain the cost but, couldn't a donation of this magnitude have been put to better use in a country of magnificent Buddhist temples?

We then hiked for 90 minutes along a route, high in the mountain, parallel with the city. Always a good down time for chat. Two interesting topics, the average age of death in men, less than 62, mainly due to a berry and leaf they chew, (beetle nut) not disimilar from Yanks with tobacco, that gives cancer of the mouth. You see what looks like splatters of blood everywhere, however, it's where the red residue, doma, has been spat! There are signs not to spit at most public buildings and spaces. Our guide has a call from his sister, he was born in the Year of the Dog and this year is not going so well. His father has summoned him home to prostrate a ritual to turn around the family fortune. We are keen to encourage him, after all, AD is a year of the dog, too, and they stick together as a pack!

We end the walk at a temple that celebrates children. You bring your two month old infant for a blessing and, also, with the help of the Abbot, to determine the child's name. Only the father can enter the chamber with the child, emerging to the concerned mother with a blessed, named child. We went through the naming process, AD is Nima Gyalmo (Sun & Goddess of victory)and I'm Sonam Dorji. (fortunate and indestructable diamond!)

After the usual lunch of rice and vegtables which is always more interesting to the taste buds than meets the eye, we met the lady who owns the travel agency we are using. Chimi has been a star, as agreed by other travellers we've met. She has gifts for us and is charming.

In the afternoon we viisted a Heritage Museum which one of the Queens, there are four and all heterosexual, initiated as a way of being able to capture history and culture for the younger generations. It is a site which shows a typical home of centuries ago, crafts, means of making things, farming etc. It's really well done and fascinating, a little like a national Black Country Museum. The national animal is a Takin, a sort of goat meets sheep meets bison, a very sturdy herbivore that the previous King made the national animal as part of it's conservation, It's reserve is just below the King's Palace and the black Merc in front of his was carrying the Prince home from kindergarden. A visit to the Post Office didn't excite the senses when viewed upon the itinerary, however, it was easily the highlight of the day. Apart from the most incredible collection of First Day covers, there is a museum that explains Bhutan and stamps, an innovative history where Bhutan has been one of the world's leaders. In the early 70's, whoever ran the Post Office was having a ball, stamps that were embroidered, stamps that were talikng vinyl, it goes on. When the internet arrived here in '99, The Post Office offered a service where you could write a letter to a distant recipient, it would then be emailed to the nearest outpost, downloaded, written as a letter and delivered. A museum of innovation and fascination.

As Prassang is off to prostrate his ritual tomrrow, we add a few things from the next day's itinerary to get him the time he needs. We visit an archery match. This is the national sport, two teams of 11 do battle. Bamboo bows and a combined sheath of arrows. Wearing national costume they split up into 5, who shoot and 6, who stand 145 metres away, surrounding a very small target. It's hard to follow the quiver, such is the distance, the trust in the 5 by the 6 is funny to watch. Metal tipped arrows are ducked around with ambivalence. If an arrow hits the target, the five form a circle for a shuffling dance while the six form two lines of three, back to the archers and do a similar shuffle, loved it!

Our final stop is the fortress which houses the Thimphu festival, the Kings office, a monastry and is the centre of the town. We watch the ceremonial taking down of the national flag with ubiquitous silly walk, before heading in to the interior. While waiting to enter, I saw a vehicle belonging to the Dept of Agriculture parked up. It had been donated by the EU, despite being an Indian vehicle. Surely, a donation to any agriculutral programme should involve education, new practices etc, not a vehicle just sitting around! Before the mandatory Brexiteer rebukes, also consider; Bhutan receives aid from India, the UK gives aid to India... discuss! It's a huge building and very impressive. Prassang seems to know everyone, a guard to find a parking palce, another to usher us in first, plus, nearly every good looking lady we bump in to. Quite the lad but, a delight to be in the company of, well informed and fitting us like a glove! It's a Tuesday, in Bhutan, once a week, it's a dry day, so it's no cocktails and beer for us. Bed at 8.30 seems so natural without distraction!

Day 7; Our last full day in Bhutan and we make an early start to accomodate Prassang heading off to the country, his Dad is coming to pick him up to make sure he doesn't bunk off! First port of call, a wonderful paper making showroom. To see these old skills transform a plant called Daphne in to paper is really spectacular. Old machinery, water everywhere and lots of intrigue to watch it all happen. With new careers like social media PR managers, influencers etc, watching something like this makes you think, really, we have lost our way! We then visited a college where students, from 16, spend 6 years learning skills like woodcarving, embroidery, sculpture, painting.. making artifacts that are part of the country's culture and have been made for centuries. To see these kids going for it was quite humbling, good for them. As it was traditional, you had to take your shoes off, with no hiking or temples, my slip ons do exactly that with great satisfaction. We also visited the National Weaving Museum, this first purpose built, modern exhibition space, and, if I'm honest, it was boring and impersonal, the story line one dimensional and the result, forgettable. A stroll down an arts and craft market area, think Christmas market without the beer and we have discharged Prassang to his filial duty in the hills. We finally found a coffee shop that knew what a flat white was, roasted their own beans and it did not disappoint, as we settled in to our chairs for caffeine heaven! It also had a surprisingly strong and consistent wifi signal, a rareity in these parts that has me nervous as I press print the Blog, thinking I might lose two hours tapping!