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Greek Odyssey
Alan: While we were sorry to leave Lipsi, our ferry trip was straightforward and gave us a pleasant hour or so zipping through the islands en route to Kalymnos. Things changed with our arrival as Kalymnos is a big, busy island. We spotted the bus stop for our transfer to Myrties where we would connect with the small boats for the 10-15 minute journey to Telendos. With best part of an hour to wait we humped our luggage to a nearby taverna advertising breakfast. Unfortunately there was no connection with the menu which offered nothing resembling breakfast fare. A frappe and a beer later we were on a packed bus looking out for our stop to get the next ferry. An hour later we were getting a bit worried, we were fairly sure we had seen the little harbour, but we also seemed to be getting further away from it. A brief conversation with the driver allayed our fears (as the bus undertook various loops on our latest "round the island tour"), but when he shouted for our stop we thought he might be having a joke as we stood on a main road. Shouldn't we be able to see the sea? Happily we located it and the ferries down a non-descript side road. We could see the ferries and Telendos so felt confident enough to make a second attempt at breakfast (the details of which I’ll leave to Deb J) before the final leg.
Telendos itself was a bit strange, it felt a bit artificial. The other islands we had been on all supported a Greek community that was impacted to a lesser or greater extent by tourism. Telendos pretty much closes out of season (apparently 3 people do live there all year) and it is essentially a line of buildings running along the shore that is visible from Kalymnos. The beaches (visited by day-trippers and the few people who stay there) are not exceptional and there is not really anywhere to go on the island apart from a couple of strolls to different beaches. It may just have been where we were up to on our trip, but it felt a bit like we were marking time (6 nights) before heading on the Halki. The biggest plus point of our visit was that the hotel we stayed in had a lovely sea-water swimming pool (it’s main redeeming feature as they decided not to mention they didn’t take credit cards - no ATM on Telendos, we voted it worst shower of the trip and the whole place was looking rather tired) constructed some height above sea-level which meant it came with its own views. It was from far an unpleasant island to stay on and we had some lovely meals in Telendos’ tavernas. We just didn’t engage the way we had on the other, very varied, islands.
Deb: I can’t add much really, as Alan has summed it up rather well! However, as mentioned, I can recount our taverna stop whilst waiting at the port for the ferry to Telendos. There was one taverna just by the jetty; it did look a bit quiet but we thought maybe it was just a general lack of visitors? The menu was pretty basic, but having been up early and done a ferry + long bus journey, we were a bit peckish. The old guy who shuffled across looked a bit like an old retainer at a haunted house, in films where the young couple’s car breaks down – there is thunder and lightning and they see a rather sinister looking house, knock on the door which then creaks open to reveal a spooky-looking old butler. Well, he looked a bit like that. We ordered a sausage and chips and “giant beans” (rather nice beans in tomato sauce (nothing like baked beans!). Well. He looked at us through his one good eye and muttered something rather sneeringly – so, we then pointed to the menu with the two dishes – he put his nose on the menu but still couldn’t see it, so we then shouted out what it was. He shuffled off..............unfortunately it was clear when we got two sausage dishes that he was half blind and totally deaf and not at all with it! More fun was to be had when three other unknowing tourists rocked up – we knew what was coming so had great fun watching the proceedings. I don’t know what happened at their first attempt, but one of the women screamed. I could hear them saying “dolmades” (stuffed vine leaves) – he then staggered out of the kitchen with three dead fish on a plate which made another woman scream- i realised that he was showing them the “dorades” (fish). God knows what would have happened if anyone ordered a rare steak – i think he would have presented them with a live cow!
So, I arrived at Telendos, very hot, very tired, very hungry and already missing Lipsi. I agree with Alan – it is just such an artificial island – no industry, no schools and only 3 residents outside of the summer season. It was just rather dull and uninspiring. But the pool was nice!
Telendos itself was a bit strange, it felt a bit artificial. The other islands we had been on all supported a Greek community that was impacted to a lesser or greater extent by tourism. Telendos pretty much closes out of season (apparently 3 people do live there all year) and it is essentially a line of buildings running along the shore that is visible from Kalymnos. The beaches (visited by day-trippers and the few people who stay there) are not exceptional and there is not really anywhere to go on the island apart from a couple of strolls to different beaches. It may just have been where we were up to on our trip, but it felt a bit like we were marking time (6 nights) before heading on the Halki. The biggest plus point of our visit was that the hotel we stayed in had a lovely sea-water swimming pool (it’s main redeeming feature as they decided not to mention they didn’t take credit cards - no ATM on Telendos, we voted it worst shower of the trip and the whole place was looking rather tired) constructed some height above sea-level which meant it came with its own views. It was from far an unpleasant island to stay on and we had some lovely meals in Telendos’ tavernas. We just didn’t engage the way we had on the other, very varied, islands.
Deb: I can’t add much really, as Alan has summed it up rather well! However, as mentioned, I can recount our taverna stop whilst waiting at the port for the ferry to Telendos. There was one taverna just by the jetty; it did look a bit quiet but we thought maybe it was just a general lack of visitors? The menu was pretty basic, but having been up early and done a ferry + long bus journey, we were a bit peckish. The old guy who shuffled across looked a bit like an old retainer at a haunted house, in films where the young couple’s car breaks down – there is thunder and lightning and they see a rather sinister looking house, knock on the door which then creaks open to reveal a spooky-looking old butler. Well, he looked a bit like that. We ordered a sausage and chips and “giant beans” (rather nice beans in tomato sauce (nothing like baked beans!). Well. He looked at us through his one good eye and muttered something rather sneeringly – so, we then pointed to the menu with the two dishes – he put his nose on the menu but still couldn’t see it, so we then shouted out what it was. He shuffled off..............unfortunately it was clear when we got two sausage dishes that he was half blind and totally deaf and not at all with it! More fun was to be had when three other unknowing tourists rocked up – we knew what was coming so had great fun watching the proceedings. I don’t know what happened at their first attempt, but one of the women screamed. I could hear them saying “dolmades” (stuffed vine leaves) – he then staggered out of the kitchen with three dead fish on a plate which made another woman scream- i realised that he was showing them the “dorades” (fish). God knows what would have happened if anyone ordered a rare steak – i think he would have presented them with a live cow!
So, I arrived at Telendos, very hot, very tired, very hungry and already missing Lipsi. I agree with Alan – it is just such an artificial island – no industry, no schools and only 3 residents outside of the summer season. It was just rather dull and uninspiring. But the pool was nice!
- comments
len04liverpool Thanks for all your news,Alan & Deb. ERNIE News - Aud & Len - £0. 000 !! I did hear that ``some`` people managed a small win, ( lucky ........ ) Warm & Sunny here in Liverpool, ( makes a change ). Hope that you are both keeping cool. See you sometime in July, Cheers, Len.