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Greek Odyssey
Alan: Lipsi is definitely in my top three islands for this trip; it could well end up in a higher placing, but there are still two islands we haven't seen yet. A week here has flown by. After frantic Santorini it was a return to what we think of when we talk about Greek islands. Relatively few tourists (and the Italians only starting to arrive J) with most of the population (and us) living in the port where there are enough tavernas and ouzeries to provide choice and variety without the competition that can make walking the streets of busier islands a chore. There are several good beaches which can (in theory) all be reached on foot or more sensibly (given the wonderful heat) by (mini) bus,(note from Deb –apparently the bus drivers worked for 8 weeks last year and got NO pay for it, because of austerity measures (i.e. they are "public sector" workers.)........so unfair! This year the bus is definitely going to run because tavernas have had a whip round to pay the wages...) four taxis or our chosen option of an underpowered scooter for 10 Euros a day. Being mobile was good fun although Deb was singularly unimpressed whenever my riding skills were insufficient to generate enough speed to see us up a hill (I’m definitely blaming the bike) and left her walking while I rode up! Our performance (as both rider and passenger) improved on the second day although this may have had something to do with our (brief) lunchtime visit to the taverna on Platis Gialos beach! Lipsi has been a return to a gentler pace of life, no rushing about, not that much to do and see, just a decision as to which beach and where to have lunch laced with a good measure of people watching.
It’s one of those islands where you will meet (particularly British) people keen to tell you they have been coming every year for the last 50 years (OK, I exaggerate a little), know everyone and everything and, in a gentle way, wish to share their knowledge with you. To be fair to them it is the sort of island that makes you want to be a part of it and you can understand people trying. We were able to enjoy our first boat trip of the holiday, the 5 island tour, which was excellent and saw us do more swimming in one day than either of us had ever previously managed – we finished the trip knackered! When we were wandering round (frequently) between frappes, we speculated on where to stay if (when?) we came back. It’s that sort of island.
We were sorry to leave Lipsi, but the Italians numbers were increasing, so, after due consideration, retreat looked the better part of valour.
Deb: I echo the above! The town beach is quite nice – gets full of locals but you can get a long way out to sea and leave them all behind playing football, “tennis” or (if you are a girl) just generally showing off! We met an English woman who married a Greek she met in Athens when she was in her teens, married him, and ended upon Lipsi – 30 years ago! She told us NOT to mention Shirley Valentine – she’s used to being called that – and pointed out she did all that BEFORE the film! She now owns a shop, studios to let and her husband (now estranged) owns a couple of boats. His brother also married an English girl but she is now in England. He also owns some boats and a taverna so I think that little clan has the island wrapped up! The boat trip was cancelled on Friday – too windy! Think the wind is following us around but went on next day (a bit choppy but OK). There was a French couple who took a dog on the trip(!) and of course, they sat next to us and the poor thing kept trying to get comfy (can’t imagine a dog would cope with a rough sea!) so kept moving about. Alan was tempted to chuck him over with the anchor! We ate in later, as we are truly getting a bit fed up (literally!) of Greek food – there’s way too much on the plate and you can only eat so many Greek salads (and even that has half a kilo of feta on top of it!)
I saw an elderly couple – he was blind and she was describing the scene --which of course we were blithely looking at – a beautiful harbour, blue sea and sky, yellow sun and blue and white buildings. I felt very humble and incredibly lucky. How quickly you can take things for granted.
The snorkelling on this island has been a joy. It’s like putting your head in an aquarium! Very relaxing (easy to walk into the sea and swim), clear water and loads of fish. Brilliant.
Alan sorted out the internet (with a dongle, apparently......don’t ask me) so I actually watched an Andy Murray match whilst sitting on the balcony sipping an ouzo. Also got a scooter which was either under-powered or we have both put on even more weight than we think we have!! (see alan’s comments above!)
The ouzeries have been brilliant- really no-nonsense (not much of a menu i.e. nothing printed). We had a drink in one and got four mezze – Gigantes (broad beans in yummy tomato sauce) whitebait, tzaski and cucumber/tomato/cooked potato – plus bread! Free!! And on the last night we had fresh “small” fish and zucchini (courgette!) balls (loads) with ½ litre of wine – brilliant.
When we went to book our ferry tickets, the young lady was lovely and thought it hilarious that when booking my ticket, my name was Cameron, D – “ah Cameron Diaz”! famous!” er, not quite J
Time to pack the rucksack again later for another ferry ride to Kalymnos and then a ferry to Telendos and 6 days on an even quieter island!
It’s one of those islands where you will meet (particularly British) people keen to tell you they have been coming every year for the last 50 years (OK, I exaggerate a little), know everyone and everything and, in a gentle way, wish to share their knowledge with you. To be fair to them it is the sort of island that makes you want to be a part of it and you can understand people trying. We were able to enjoy our first boat trip of the holiday, the 5 island tour, which was excellent and saw us do more swimming in one day than either of us had ever previously managed – we finished the trip knackered! When we were wandering round (frequently) between frappes, we speculated on where to stay if (when?) we came back. It’s that sort of island.
We were sorry to leave Lipsi, but the Italians numbers were increasing, so, after due consideration, retreat looked the better part of valour.
Deb: I echo the above! The town beach is quite nice – gets full of locals but you can get a long way out to sea and leave them all behind playing football, “tennis” or (if you are a girl) just generally showing off! We met an English woman who married a Greek she met in Athens when she was in her teens, married him, and ended upon Lipsi – 30 years ago! She told us NOT to mention Shirley Valentine – she’s used to being called that – and pointed out she did all that BEFORE the film! She now owns a shop, studios to let and her husband (now estranged) owns a couple of boats. His brother also married an English girl but she is now in England. He also owns some boats and a taverna so I think that little clan has the island wrapped up! The boat trip was cancelled on Friday – too windy! Think the wind is following us around but went on next day (a bit choppy but OK). There was a French couple who took a dog on the trip(!) and of course, they sat next to us and the poor thing kept trying to get comfy (can’t imagine a dog would cope with a rough sea!) so kept moving about. Alan was tempted to chuck him over with the anchor! We ate in later, as we are truly getting a bit fed up (literally!) of Greek food – there’s way too much on the plate and you can only eat so many Greek salads (and even that has half a kilo of feta on top of it!)
I saw an elderly couple – he was blind and she was describing the scene --which of course we were blithely looking at – a beautiful harbour, blue sea and sky, yellow sun and blue and white buildings. I felt very humble and incredibly lucky. How quickly you can take things for granted.
The snorkelling on this island has been a joy. It’s like putting your head in an aquarium! Very relaxing (easy to walk into the sea and swim), clear water and loads of fish. Brilliant.
Alan sorted out the internet (with a dongle, apparently......don’t ask me) so I actually watched an Andy Murray match whilst sitting on the balcony sipping an ouzo. Also got a scooter which was either under-powered or we have both put on even more weight than we think we have!! (see alan’s comments above!)
The ouzeries have been brilliant- really no-nonsense (not much of a menu i.e. nothing printed). We had a drink in one and got four mezze – Gigantes (broad beans in yummy tomato sauce) whitebait, tzaski and cucumber/tomato/cooked potato – plus bread! Free!! And on the last night we had fresh “small” fish and zucchini (courgette!) balls (loads) with ½ litre of wine – brilliant.
When we went to book our ferry tickets, the young lady was lovely and thought it hilarious that when booking my ticket, my name was Cameron, D – “ah Cameron Diaz”! famous!” er, not quite J
Time to pack the rucksack again later for another ferry ride to Kalymnos and then a ferry to Telendos and 6 days on an even quieter island!
- comments
sue you have photographed the place (( night time shot) where ken and I were abs paralytic after going on a boat trip with Rena and her husband. That's where I couldn't find my way out of the loo.
sue Well I say I will never go back anywhere but I could be tempted - its over 10 years since we were there