Part 2 - More neighbourhoods of Lisbon

The areas of Cais de Sodré, Castelo de Sáo Jorge and Alfama are at opposite sides of the city and very different to each other. Depending on the amount of time a traveller has to spend in Lisbon, they're all worth seeing. Across from the busy station of Caise de Sodré is the Market - Mercado da Ribeira - which many people now know as Time Out. Rebuilt in 1771, just 5 years after the big earthquake, the new 10,000 sq metre iron structure had the "revolutionary" idea to have running water. This took the form of a trough on the floor which ran through the centre of the building. It provided the much needed sanitation for all the vendors and their products. Theoughout the following years there were periodic improvements and expansions before it was once again destroyed - this time by a fire in 1893. Thirty years after the fire the market was rebuilt again, this time with the addition of a domed roof, a clock tower and hand painted tiles on the walls.
For over 100 years it continued to be a traditional marketplace, but in 2014 it became part of an innovative project. In one half of the building the market continues to sell its fresh products, while the other side is one large open area filled with communal tables. Around the four side walls are restaurants, cafés and bars - many being run by renowned Lisbon chefs and their staff. Orders are taken at the counters and then patrons just find a seat - which is often a challenge….it's a popular gathering place that's lively, very noisy and always busy. The first time we saw it - just 2 years after it opened, we'd never seen anything like it - this concept being quite new. We've seen many versions of it since then, but we have yet to see anything to match Time Out in Lisbon!

Running parallel and a couple of streets behind the market is Rua Nova do Carvalho, better known as "Pink Street." Once a street frequented by sailors and prostitutes it's now a small area renowned for late night bars and rowdy gatherings. During the day there's not much to see - the steet is painted bright pink, with multicoloured umbrellas hanging from a canopy above. Late morning when we walked through this small area there were a couple of restaurants open and a few tourists milling around. Populated at night by both city dwellers and tourists, a young crowd fills both the street and the 4 bars that the city allows to stay open....it's closing time for all the other bars in the city. One day after leaving the train station we did a quick walk through Pink Street, but if time in Lisbon is limited it can be easily skipped….unless you like late-night bars!

Heading north Cais de Sodré transitions into the lower part of the Bica district - it's a bit shabby here, but has an easy-going, relaxed and laid back atmosphere. There's a few interesting streets with independent cafés and small shops. To reach The Castelo de São Jorge, where we were heading, we had to travel across the city. Heading in a north easterly direction we walked up alongside the tracks of The Elvador de Bica - another funicular that helps to conquer Lisbon's hills. It's a particularly steep climb but there's a reward at the top….another lookout area - the Miradouro de Santa Caterina. This terrace has a smallish park area with a statue of a mythical monster at its centre representing the Cape of Good Hope, which apparently is sometimes referred to as the Cape of Torment. Around the statue there's various levels of stone blocks where people can sit. We enjoyed another one of our picnics, along with more great views over the city. There's the same relaxed feeling here that found we in area below.

Passing some now familiar landmarks we reached the castle. From its first settlement in the 7th century, it's been a safe place for many people to shelter, including the Moors when being attacked. After the Moors were expelled, It became a residence for Christian royalty during the mid-12th to the 16th century. Housing various armies throughout the years, both before and after being damaged, it was named as a National Monument in the 20th century. Today the open space inside its walls has information boards giving many of the historical details. Some ancient stones from the Roman and Moorish eras are in this area, plus some steep steps which can be (carefully) climbed in order to reach walkways and crumbling towers. There's some nice views over the city from the top of the walls. The castle also has a small museum and a café.
Afterwards we spent a little time strolling around the small surrounding neighbourhood. These peaceful little lanes have a few tiny shops and cafés along with houses that date from the Middle Ages. This place has an air of tranquility about it - so it's easy to imagine it as a place of shelter….it's self-contained, but still within the castle walls - and there's only one way in and out!

Just down the road from the castle there's the church of Santa Luzia and a small square with another lookout over the city. Miradouro de Santa Luzia has a small terrace with an expansive view over the city, including the new port which welcomes a lot of cruise ships. There's also views of the Alfama district below, which is where we headed next.
Parts of Alfama remain seemingly untouched by time, or by the rebuilding done after the 1755 earthquake. It has of course seen some changes, but a lot remains of the alleyways, which are so different from the grid system of present day Lisbon. Twisting and turning on themselves it's easy to see how it would confuse any enemy trying to find a way in. History tells us this was exactly the reason for its "design." It's full of atmosphere and lots of interesting stuff to see, especially if you like to just wander around. Shabby houses and buildings are very close together. The shops seem to sell everything, including lots of fish. Outside little folding tables take up temporary spaces where older ladies sell small potent shots of Ginjinha liqueur.
To maintain this closely knit neighbourhood, a lot has been done by locals to enable them to stay and live here, but sadly many have had to leave due to rising prices. Properties in the Alfama have been bought, sold and re-sold for tourist accommodations. Inside these shabby exteriors are some sought after places for visitors to rent. Some of its former residents return for annual festivals, recreating their traditional fiestas and gatherings.
We enjoyed the wanderings - frequently seeing the same lttle street when we "got lost." We turned down numerous offers of Ginjinha, tickets to see Fado shows....and we didn't buy any fish! We spent some time in the main square of Largo de São Miguel, passed the Fado Museum (the Alfama area was - and still is - famous for Fado). Close by, as we walked along the waterfront, we took a peek inside the Taylor's Port building. Inside there's a small shop and an attractive bar area which offers various tastings of their famous port.

As we made our way back to the train station, we continued along the waterfront and many other streets of Lisbon that we'd become familiar with. Some have become favourites, for a variety of reasons - but we always find something new and interesting. This time it was a building which we thought might be some designer's folly - its exterior is "decorated" with pointed stones…..but an information board quickly educated us. Casa dos Bicos (house of the pointed stones ) was actually built as a home for a member of the nobility in 1522…..apparently influenced by Italian Renaissance façades. The top 2 floors collapsed after the earthquake and no longer a residence it was used for many purposes over the years. Finally rebuilt and refurbished in the early 1980's, it gained some modern touches while keeping with its original style.

As this was our last day of visiting Lisbon we decided to take a final walk along Rua Augusta and through the Arch of Triumph….it turned out to be a good decision. When we got close to this lovely archway we saw a band of young musicians seemingly celebrating something. The surrounding crowd was clapping, singing and joining in - with one woman deciding to partner up and dance with a young man from the band. They danced well together, enjoying the moment - as did everyone else. A random, but memorable moment.
Finally at the staton we said our "até lago" (see you later) to Lisbon. Apologies to any Portuguese friends if I got this phrase wrong, but I hope the meaning is clear…we would love to see you another time Lisbon - you're a great city!