LAMEGO

Leaving Porto behind, we took the train to Lamego, which follows the route of the river Duoro. Our new "digs" would be our home for the last week of this Portuguese adventure. Although the train wasn't the old steam train used for special tours along this scenic journey, it was older than any we'd used here before. With wider carriages, high bench seats and large picture windows that opened all the way down, it made for a very pleasant and comfortable ride.
We'd barely left the city when a group of men came aboard, joined by a few others at the next couple of stations. Ranging in age, they all wore the same coloured shirts that sported the same logo. During our 2 hour journey they added interest and some unexpected entertainment for the surrounding passengers. Although obviously out for a good time together, they were neither too loud or impolite in any way - in fact all of the passengers around them seemed to enjoy their presence. They quickly opened beers and unpacked sandwiches….. a couple of designated guys were on clean-up duty. Many train-stations sell sandwiches, but along this route they can be bought by simply lowering the train window and buying them from one of the ladies who walk the platforms. Carrying baskets of freshly made sandwiches, there's no need to leave the train or interrupt the journey …and the group of men took full advantage of this handy service!

Whatever anyone has heard or read about this area of Portugal, cannot begin to describe its beauty. About 45 minutes after leaving Porto we noticed a change in the landscape, with trees becoming scarcer and the number of grape vines increasing rapidly. Hills became higher and the terraces grew steeper as we entered the magical Duoro valley, experiencing one of the most beautiful and scenic train rides in the world. At this time of year, the grapes have been picked and the vines have begun to take on all the colours of Autumn….the effect is stunning. Two hours after leaving Porto, our train ride ended in Regua. Leaving the station, we began our time in one of the oldest and most noted wine growing areas in the world -something that had been on my "bucket list" for a long time, but had been postponed due to the pandemic. A 20 minute taxi ride took us up the winding, narrow roads to Lamego, an historic town high in these magical hills. The driver had a little trouble finding the apartment, which is on a narrow, cobbled street in the ancient part of town - but with a little help from some local guys, he found it. Having arrived on an earlier train than planned, our new host was accommodating enough to meet us and allow access to the apartment. Spacious and modern our "home" for the next 7 nights was in a 300 year old building, that has been sympathetically renovated. We dropped our bags and found a café close by where we ate an interesting platter of bread and local smoked sausage. Afterwards we found some local shops for supplies and enjoyed a sunset drink on our large stone terrace.

Although happy to sample the local wines, we wanted this visit to the Duoro to be more than that, choosing Lamego as our base. The town has a long history and during our time there we visited the suggested points of interest. We spread them out, savouring them over a few days, while also taking the time to enjoy the feel of the town, which we found to be very friendly. We enjoyed the time spent walking and navigating our way through its hilly, cobbled streets.
"Our" street, together with 2 others, leads into a small square which has a bar, a café, a fruit and vegetable store, plus a butcher's shop just around the corner. In the short time we were in Lamego, quite a few of the local shopkeeprs got to know us. I often went out before breakfast to pick up bread and tasty pastries. Trevor stayed in the apartment making coffee, while anticipating the morning treat! In the evening on the way "home," it became a habit to pop into the fruit and vegetable store for their fresh and tasty produce.
Beyond "our" square, one way leads downhill into the more commercial part of town, the other goes further uphill, to a much older area where narrow streets wind and wrap back around each other. Here is where the castle, a landmark of the town, is situated. Although Lamego is a town that's visited for its history - most visitors are only there for part of the day or overnight, so like many other northern towns, many of its residents speak only Portuguese. Staying for a week, we were somewhat of a local novelty, but the language barrier didn't cause any difficulties…on the contrary, it caused quite a few laughs for us all.

Three of the most visited places in town are the castle, its cistern and the archaeological museum - they're all close to each other and like many places in Portugal - free to enter. None of these historic places take up a great deal of time, even for the likes of us, who like to take our time and poke around! Lamego Castle, the highest point in the city, is just across from the street where we stayed. Only the wall and tower is left of this 12th century fortress which was named a Portuguese national monument in 1910. Built to protect the people of Lamego it was erected on a hill, 543 metres high. The views from there are lovely - with the whole city and the surrounding area far below. Inside the tower we climbed up a narrow set of stairs and then around a section of the walls. The cistern is one of the best preserved in the country and is just a couple of minutes from the castle. Moorish in design it has vaulted ceilings and is well lit inside for visitors, but without any explanation it was, for us, a very quick look.
The archaeological museum is also just one room, with glass walkways atop the exhibits below. A very nice lady who sat at the front entrance came to offer some explanations as the few information boards were in Portuguese. She explained the different levels of the uncovered ground and the discoveries that had been unearthed. The levels marked the time of the period - ranging from the Romans to the Visigoths and the Medeival. One skeleton, displayed under glass, represents others that had been found there. Research found that this one was a man of approximately 25 years who had died of an undetermined disease. Although as I said earlier, these historic places can be seen very quickly, but the small medieval streets that surround them are very interesting to stroll around. While walking them, it's easy feel the historic atmosphere of this lovely town.

On the opposite hill to the castle is the pilgrimage church of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. This one needs a bit more physical effort to reach as there are 600 steps to climb. There's a road winding up the hill behind it that allows access for anyone unable or unwilling to climb the staircase.
Having climbed something similar quite a few years ago in Braga, we knew that climbing all those steps is quite an effort, but one we felt was well worth it. As we climbed up this Baroque-style staircase, we enjoyed the great views (and a little rest) at every level. Some levels have azulejos tiles depicting religious scenes. Many are damaged, but these old, hand-painted tiles are still beautiful. The staircase took over 200 years to build, beginning 1781, it was finally completed in 1969. The 16th century church stands on the site of a 14th century chapel. In front of the church is an imposing large courtyard, with tall statues around the sides - it's known as the Courtyard of the Kings. A fountain - also tall - sits at its centre. The church has a bell tower on each side, with a clock below. The windows are framed, giving a beautiful and balanced façade. The interior has more azulejos tiled religious panels, carved wooden altar pieces and a lovely ceiling in pale blue and white - unusual for a church.

We made our way back down into town by taking a path which runs through some woodlands, close to the staircase. On a flat piece of ground, about halfway down, we saw a stone picnic table with stone benches - dated 1899. At the bottom of the staircase is the Avenida, the central area of town and a gathering place. We took a leisurely stroll down this wide, tree-lined boulevard that has shops and cafés around the perimeter. The centre of the Avenida is a paved area, complete with fountains and statues. We took a seat at a café with a view of the church and all of those steps that we'd just conquered. We rewarded ourselves - with a cold beer for Trevor and a glass of wine from the oldest producer of "bubbly" in Portugal for me.…but more about this renowned sparkling treat + other wine-tours that we diid - and tastings we enjoyed - in the next chapter of the blog!