A DAY TRIP TO ALBUFEIRA
It's been over 5 years since we were in Albufeira, having spent a month there in 2017. At that time we learned that it's a town of contradictions - it can be loud and boisterous, especially in the evenings when Neil Diamond "wanna-be" singers populate the restaurants and bars. It can also be tacky - for example - there are street vendors who like to propel little robotic toys in your path…toys that make annoying sounds accompanied by flashing lights! Clowns and mimes troll around the bars, playing to a willing and interactive audience…but - and there is a big but - this Albufeira happens almost exclusively in Praca da Republica - the main square - plus a couple of the side streets adjacent to it. Maybe not the original intent for this square, but it's still a public gathering space and many seem to enjoy this type of atmosphere in the evenings….but if you're there when the sun goes down, be prepared for it! After our first few evening strolls, we'd decided it wasn't for us….so over time we found a different side of Albufeira to while away the evening hours. More obvious during the day time, there is the "other Albufeira" - a side of this town which we actually grew to enjoy and decided to revisit, 5 years later.

A train journey of just over an hour, was followed by a trip on the town's "bus-circular" to the bus station, and then a 15 minute walk into town. It's not the easiest town-centre to get to by public transit, and I have to say that the town's bus drivers are still "testy!"….but no worries as we knew what to expect - we'd taken that route many times before. For old times sake, we walked passed the apartment we'd previously rented, immediately entering Albufeira's main street - Rua 5 de Outubro, and the old town. Within this area the streets have the traditional cobblestones and they're the heart of Albufeira. Many are lined with shops and every possible type of restaurant. As we strolled along the street, we saw shops, cafés and restaurants that were familiar - but sadly, quite a few that didn't make it through the pandemic. One building which is now up for sale was the main youth hostel….always a lively place whenever we passed.
At then end of the street is a tunnel which leads to a wide terrace overlooking Praia dos Pescadores (Fisherman's beach). This tunnel which goes right through a cliff, was completed in 1935 and was excavated specifically for this purpose. Steps lead down to the large beach.

Throughout the day we walked this lovely old town, but after circling the garish central square, we headed to that "other Albufeira." Winding upwards from town, there are many narrow, cobbled streets that twist and turn in a delightful jumble of startling white buildings. From high above, we gazed across - and down - at beaches of every size - from small, private coves to long expansive stretches….all with golden coloured sand. Towering above these beaches are high cliffs whose colours range from orange through to red. The cliff tops are covered in pine trees, the scent of which travels and lingers far across this wonderful landscape.

Across the top of the cliffs we passed the Church of Saint Sebastian which contains The Museum of Sacred Art….although we've yet to see it open! Just past this 18th century church is a pathway whose white-washed wall now displays some great photographs. A line of black and white prints stretch across the wall - photos taken by Artur Pastor, who is considered one of the greatest Portuguese photographers of the 20th century. This exhibition is a depiction of life in the Algarve from the 1940s to 1970s - a life consisting of fishing - and one that was much more rural than the Algarve of today.
Just a little further on and we could see the the old harbour and "new" Marina….we've spent many happy hours at both places. The new Marina is a big one, with some small, but many large, privately owned boats and yachts - plus ones specifically there for tourist excursions. There's a constant stream of tours that go in and out through a canal, that joins it to the old harbour and the sea beyond.
Opened in 2003, the Marina has numerous cafés and bars around its perimeter, but again sadly some premises are closed - obviously they too didn't make it through the pamdemic. The buildings there are multicoloured, usually causing most people to smile when seeing them for the first time - which was the intent of its architect, Tomás Taveira. It's said to be very loud at night - similar to the main square in town, but during the day and early evening it's quite a calm place to spend time. In the past we've had a couple of sunset dinners there, which have been lovely and peaceful.

Our preference though is for the only restaurant in the old harbour….a place that quickly became a favourite of ours. "Porto de Abrigo" (roughly translated as a place of refuge) is open every day except Mondays and serves food from noon to 10pm. With some "snack items" it mostly specializes in fresh fish and seafood. We decided to add some more time to the tranquil hours we'd previously spent there - sitting at a table by the water, sometimes with only a couple of other people around - sometimes alone. We consider it time well spent - watching the yachts and the tour-boats come and go through the channel from the Marina as they continue through this peaceful harbour. With virtually no noise but the sound of the birds and the water lapping at the waterside - with Trevor enjoying a frosty beer, while I sip a glass of ice-cold, dry rosé, it was pretty close to perfect!

We finally tore ourselves away and made our way back to the train station - reversing the route of when we arrived. We were back home in Lagos after dark - tired but happy and after clocking many steps….just 5 steps short of 27,000 for me, according to my FitBit!