I'm in destination numero dos in Peru, Huacychina.

Way back when I was in Brazil, someone on a bus told me the best thing they did in Peru was go up and down some sand-dunes in a jeep. So, bearing in mind the recommendation from a hippie with a ring-pull in his dreadlocks, here I am in sunny Huacychina. Try saying it fast after a few Pisco Sours.

The bus journey here was an experience in itself - Peru is stunning. As we left the metropolis of Lima the bus wound its way through towering cliffs and dunes, on a long road that seemed to lead to nowhere. We passed homes made of thatched reeds, ancient trucks like you see in American movies, and roadside cafes which I'll try to avoid eating in. Oh and the buses here are like Argentina, hurrah, comfort and safety combined. It was a bit disconcerting when in Colombia to be told that buses are dangerous and under no circumstances should I take one at night. Thankfully, there is no guerrilla presence in Peru so in a couple of days I'm overnighting to Cuzco.

Back to Huacychina. The hostel has a pool so I've spent the day topping up my tan (interrupted by a bit of football-watching - even in Peru everyone is obsessed with the Champions League). They'd messed up my booking so last night the manager took pity on me and I got my own room, complete with a dog fashioned out of towels on the bed. My own pooch! Obviously is a poor substitute for Tara, Monty and Pixie Poodle, but gypsies can't be choosers (Joanna kept referring to me as a gypsy, it's stuck).

The roar of an engine sounded time to head off up the towering dunes. Clambering into the buggy-jeep-thing I strapped myself in, exchanged platitudes with the all-Israeli passengers (more Israelis, they are taking over South America) and clung on for dear life. What a ride! We thundered across the desert plains, soared over the tops of the dunes and screamed as the buggy came crashing down over the hills. It was like being at Alton Towers if suddenly the countryside turned to desert.

Hurtling to a stop atop a huge dune, we disembarked to try sandboarding. A more sophisticated version than when I used a sheet of wobbly plastic in Vietnam, this time I was handed a proper piece of wood - a bit like a snowboard, with straps for the feet. Here goes, I thought, and lowered myself down, on my tummy, remembering that you go faster head-first. Whoosh! Down I went as fast as lightening, screaming all the way and kicking up a dust storm in my wake. After a few more dunes it was time for our last crazy ride back, totally covered in sand and feeling a bit blasted from the wind. The shower has a lot of desert in it now..

Tomorrow, I'm headed for the ancient Nazca Lines.

In a light aircraft…

Pray for me.

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