Day 15, 27 June 2014 - Stockholm, Eriksson Skyview Experience, Historic Canal Cruise, Walking tour of Gamla Stan/Old Town, Stockholm Cathedral ("Storkyrkan"), Nobel Museum.
Thank heavens for the Stockholm Card (ordered online and got the 3 days for the price of 2... how? by joining the IKEA family online and using the code). It has in fact paid for itself on Day 1... and whatever I do over the next couple of days is free. Almost like printing money. Started the day visiting Skyview (pictured). It's the world's largest spherical building - so large that if you left a tap running and nobody noticed, it would take 40 years to fill it up. Including a movie and a slow ascent and descent in the bubble, only takes 30 minutes - so I can see why people reckon it's expensive at 145SEK / A$24. But still very, very, very cool. Especially on the way down when it looks like a very scary ski slope as you head off the edge. Back on the metro and despite some seriously misguided, blind freddy directions from station staff, I made it to the Town Hall next and Stadhusbron (bron seems to be bridge - so Town Hall Bridge). Had a chance to catch my breath and take in the glistening waters of Lake Maloren prior to boarding the boat and heading regally out into the calm waters of the lake to do a one hour cruise around Kingsholmen (holmen... island. Turns out there was already a Queens Island and a Knights Island. This was once Monk Island - but the Reformation put paid to that and the King thought Kings Island had a certain ring to it.) It was great taking a swing around the lake and near the end of the trip we were in the canal where Alfred Nobel had his workshop. Which he blew up a few times, completely accidentally, in his work to discover dynamite. On his death his estate was used to establish the Nobel prizes (Peace, Literature, Physics, Chemistry and Medicine/Physiology) - and it's here in Sweden that decisions are announced each year on December 10 - the anniversary of Nobel's death. You'll note there's no prize for maths... he didn't consider it a science. Back on dry land I strolled over the bridge to Gamla Stan - the old town. And officially the first "Stan" I've visited (Afghanis-, Pakis-, Kazak-, Uzbekis-, never been on the to-do list). Truly gorgeous. Quaint with a Capital Q. Sitting in the main square, Stortorget and people watching was just plain fun, then the tour guide arrived and an assorted group of people emerged from all directions and pounced - spaces were limited! She was a hoot and it was funny to hear the Swedish opinions of the neighbours after 100s of years of war... "Never trust a Dane". We heard how the cobbles of Stortorget were drenched in blood when a devious Danish King who had just taken over decided to get rid of the elites - first he feasted with them for 3 days, then the doors were locked, they were arrested and put to death in the square... 82 of them. There is a red building with white bricks right in front of us - each white brick represents one death. She tells us about the midsummer festivities just last week and that the Swedish are congenitally shy. Most do their dating online - in fact that leads me to an observation... How do you tell a Swedish man isn't shy?... He looks at your feet instead of his when he's talking to you. We strolled down the narrowest alley in Sweden - only 90 cm and then we walked the length of Priest Street - used to be separated into the German priests, the Swedish priests etc... right down the end however is Hell. Where the city executioner lived. A job reserved for horrendous criminals as an alternative to the death sentence. They had their ears cut off and their foreheads branded and their first job was to execute the previous executioner... Bloodthirsty lot. In fact, when people used to be hung (in the area of my hotel - Sodermalm), they would be hung until their heads came away from their bodies... usually considered a sign of Spring (since they were no longer frozen). Daffodils. I prefer Daffodils. We passed the Stockholm Cathedral - called Storkyrkan it has a stunning sculpture of St George & the Dragon. It's known as Stockholm's happy church - where all the Royal weddings take place. Continuing on we ended up on the island Riddarholmen - with its sad church - funerals and burials. Also in Gamla Stan is the German church... quite a bit prettier than the Happy Church - just don't tell the Swedes. After the tour I hot-footed it back into the old town and had time to visit the Cathedral and see the statue for myself - a stunning place filled with golden light. Worth the visit, then with 40 minutes til closing I made it back to Stortorget for a visit to the Nobel Museum - fascinating exhibits, quotes, items from various winners of the prizes over the years and a thought provoking exhibition on the issues of today and the future that science needs to get a wriggle on with. I'll close with a short auto-biography written by the man himself: Alfred Nobel - pitiful creature, ought to have been suffocated by a humane physician when he made his howling entrance into this life. Greatest virtues: keeping his nails clean and never being a burden to anyone. Greatest weakness: having neither wife and kids nor sunny dispositions nor hearty appetite. Greatest single request: to not be buried alive. Greatest sin: not worshiping Mammon. Important events in his life: none.