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Thanks to Kenny, it was another early start for Sumera and I as we travelled 232km into the deepest darkest rainforest in Borneo to stay in a longhouse with an Iban tribe (Famous for being headhunters), whose village was located just off the banks of the Lemanak River. The Longhouse we were travelling to was the Jampang Longhouse... names of the Longhouses are based upon the chiefs surname.
There was nobody else booked on this visit so Sumera and I had Kenny as our personal tour guide, just like the day before. After being picked up we set off on 4 hour bus journey east to a jetty where we were picked up by a couple of the Iban tribe people. With numpty of here having zero sense of balance they were instrumental in ensuring I was able to get onto the boat without drowning myself in the fast flowing river... I would mention that I was put to shame as Jungle Jane (aka Sumera) skipped on board and made me look even more special.
The boat journey was about 30 mins and was for me one of the defining moments of my life. I have rarely if ever felt such peace and must have looked lobotomised as I sat there with a permanent grin plastered all over my face as we made headway upstream (I recorded a couple of videos of the journey and got quite snap happy.
As we arrived at the Longhouse Kenny was there to meet us and was quick to show us around. There are no words really to describe the place... the photos will really give you a better idea of just how even the indigenous tribes, living in the most remote locations, are moving with the times... however, it's not like that for all of them.
Kenny has close ties with this tribe, as his grandfather was a head-hunter, and as soon as we found out we were to be staying in a "guest-house" we managed to sweet talk him into letting us stay in the Longhouse with the rest of the tribe, rather than at the purpose built guest house. It did not take much persuasion to be fair, and he kindly arranged for us to stay in the chiefs room (if you see a photo of a room totally covered in plastic and pimped out with electronics... that's the chiefs house, or at least one of them).
We ventured out of the chiefs room in the evening to find the rest of the tribe waiting for us... we were then officially welcomed to the Longhouse by traditionally dressed folk dancing. The "Welcome Dance" as it is called imitates the movement of the Hornbill bird, an animal they worship as a deity still to this day, even after having converted to Christianity. I have again recorded some videos of this, albeit sideways, for your viewing pleasure. (The better one is the second one, the dude is 72 yrs old and a headhunter and he was one of the sweetest men we met out here)
Once the dancing finished, Sumera and I were encouraged to get up there... as most of you who have seen me dance know... I crucified their beautiful ritual and I believe there are a few embarrassing shots that Kenny kindly took to remind us of just how bad I was.
Next came the good bit... the toasting "Hooooooooooo Haaa! Hoooooooooooo Haa! Hoooooooooooo Haa!". For the life of me I can't remember the siginificance of why there are three but to be fair the rice wine and rice whiskey were flowing in large quantities and I was drinking for two as Sumera was on medication :-) The merryment continued well into the night as we chatted to a group of guys who were making the most of the rice whiskey... and trying their level best to get me very very inebriated. Having to be up at silly o'clock the next day we played it sensibly and went to bed at a reasonable hour and for me... still walking straight :-)
The next morning Kenny took us further up river and on a jungle trek before catching the longboat and heading back all the way downstream where we were picked up by Kenny and the bus and commenced the tedious 4 hour journey home with frowns on our faces... this is definitely something we will do again only next time it will be for longer.
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