We made the decision to drive through Poland quickly to cross the bridge into Central Europe, and allow us some time in the south of the country around Krakow, so after a gentle night camped at an Agroturismo site near Elk, where I could have a long morning swim in the warmer lake and there was a German family camping with two boys who reminded us of Ben & Tom, we spent our longest day driving - past glimpses of the gleaming towers of Warsaw's central business district and the edges of the old town and on towards Krakow. It felt odd to be back in a more densely populated country - one village or town merging into the next, with taller buildings and bigger industrial and commercial stretches. And suddenly the May-ish countryside is more like England - the wild camping spot we found could have been a Thames-side meadow in Oxfordshire!

As we've entered each country, we have spent time reading up on the history, geography and culture of the place as well as identifying our route through it and stopping points - and Poland's been enlightening - centuries as a political and cultural powerhouse of Europe before becoming the middle of a tug of war between Germany and Russia. However - we've also become acutely aware that we can't 'know' a country by the amount of time we're spending in each. We are dipping our toes very shallowly into each place, and should really preface everything we say with 'our experience was …'.

The area around Krakow provides lots to explore: The wooden houses of Zalipie, where the floral folk-art decorations on the houses reminded us of canal boats; Wieliczka salt mine - the first really touristy place we've been to - guided coach tours and stalls of tourist tat lining the entrance - but deep underground the most extraordinary caves left by the mining which have been turned into salt-chandeliered chapels; Krakow itself with a vast old town square with an arched Cloth Hall in the middle which reminded us of the one in Halifax and a lovely feel of an old university town in spite of the many tourists; and Auschwitz where we went late in the day and, in the quietness, could contemplate the chillingly awful efficiency of it.

The real surprise in Poland was driving south into the High Tatras - part of the Carpathian mountain range - still with snow on the top and the wooded slopes interrupted by pretty ski resorts of wooden chalets and busy cafes. And we could experience the same on the Slovak side of the border, although sadly couldn't get high to walk as it was threatening storms.

We're 2/3s of the way through our trip. Some thoughts:

· It's been difficult to make decisions about what to see in each place. We are having to be very selective and stay focussed on the route. It's easy to feel that we are missing important things - but at the same time it's meant that we've seen some less visited spots and surprises. It'll be interesting to see what we focus on in countries that are more familiar, or we've visited before. With the advancing season, we wonder if it'll be more about finding the really quiet spots and just 'being' in Archie.

· Precious moments are connections with people - at one wild spot in the morning we crossed an elderly couple walking who explained they'd been picking wild mushrooms; a lady helping us to try and navigate Tallinn's park and ride system; a chat at the lakeside on a campsite. It's surprised us that these have been fewer than we'd expected. We do seek out quiet campsites and empty wild spots and Nala's defensive bark when she is in the van is sadly not a welcoming, but when they come they make us very happy.

· Its hard not to start thinking of home and what we will be coming back to. It's lovely to have the plans for Turnpike Cottage and getting more involved in the local community, but there's also thinking about the future.