The Slovakia we travelled through surprised us with its beautiful countryside - great sweeps of lush green fields (wheat, hay and maize) with deeply wooded, blueish hills in the distance. It's been lovely to have the expansive views after fjords and flat lands.

We happened upon Vlkolinec - a small village of traditional wooden houses, some of which are still lived in, others galleries, or accommodation for hikers. It was really pretty - each one slightly different, closely packed and one deep along the village 'road' which had a rill down the middle with mountain water. Only a couple of other people there and some hikers coming down from a walk. A treasure! We took in a couple of castles - Loire valley inspired Bojnice which was too 'Disney' to impress and with the outer walls lined with tourist tat stalls; and the more imagination inspiring Beckov - a ruin perched on a rocky outcrop with just a few families visiting, a chap with a hawk on his wrist and a stringed puppet show in the courtyard. We've had some wonderful wild camp spots and a much-needed down day to catch up, do washing, and relax.

We liked Bratislava. We travelled in from the outskirts on local buses which is always fun with nala who is always on best behaviour. A small old town that didn't feel like a capital city. Lots of alternative-y shops and fabulous old style cafes with proper 'kuchen' and a street artist that looked as if he was straight out of central casting. The castle rises up above the Danube with an intimidating quartet of turrets above high walls and a view from the terrace of the grand river, the Soviet style apartment blocks on the other side and beyond to a forest of wind turbines stretching into the distance.

Leaving the city, we realised what a meeting point of borders we were at - and the next few days proved it - overnight in Austria as we couldn't find a wild spot along the Danube - the next day into Hungary and overnight above vineyards on the slope of an old volcano overlooking the vast Lake Balaton where we swam the next day - and then a drive along the Croatian border, entering into Slovenia at a village called Jeruzalem which was hosting the cycling Tour of Slovenia - Archie captured on the TV commentary by our host!) and a beautiful, Tuscan like wine area where we parked above the vines and shared a wine tasting with two Austrian seasoned van travellers. Very good wine from grapes that grew on the slopes beneath us, and good conversation comparing travel notes. It was a special evening and we rose early to walk around the vineyards in the cool of the day before moving on.

And then another couple of hours drive down onto the Croatian coast where we could enjoy the azure Adriatic and a taste of summer holiday.

We are now just a month from home! Slovenia was a big goal and turning west makes it all the more real. We do feel like we could go on for a lot longer, in spite of our busy pace. One adjusts so much to the space one has, the new routine. I imagine we will adjust quickly back to settled life, but it's hard to imagine now.

A few reflections:

- We both love how just a few simple things become important - fresh water being the main one, but also some practicalities - the fridge staying on to keep food cool; having enough data, especially for navigation; Nala getting walked and fed; and occasionally finding a washing machine!

- The precious and now elusive for us, balance that there is in Europe between the very individual, different countries, and the free movement and collective endeavour of the EU. Crossing so many borders has brought it into sharp relief, and it feels even worse to be on 'the outside'.

- How we have managed to have new experiences every day - our movement has helped that enormously, but each day we say again to ourselves 'we can't believe we're here' as something completely new presents itself.