Wellington is indeed living up to its name, the Windy City. One look at the weather chart then stepping outside the hotel confirms that we are indeed quite at home with what has been thrown at us from the sky. No problem looking like the locals here - everybody else is walking around in coats, hoods and some even in gloves as a south easterly lashes the city. Puddles form, folk take shelter and the shops do better business. The 'spring planting' park workforce retreat to their vans, alternating shovelling with shelter.

We also feel a bit of familiarity with the cityscape. Cars drive on the left here. Coloured colonial facades contrast with modern neighbours, reflecting undignified and unimaginative concrete and glass geometry. Neon signs : 'Grant Thornton' and 'Fujitsu' shout from the dizzying heights. Many old buildings are divided into smaller shops. Wellington, it seems, is the front NZ runner for noodles, sushi and coffee with dozens of outlets........ 'Midland Sushi', 'Cafe on Plimmer', 'Little Peckish Cafe' and so on. Scones, cakes and buns are arranged temptingly behind glass counters, satisfaction just a couple of dollars away. On trendy Cuba Street (actually named after a ship) entrepreneurs have played on the name to their apparent benefit. Here can be found 'Fidel', a coffee shop, 'Floriditas', a cafe/restaurant and 'Comrade', an Army Navy store.