While wandering the planet with DH I have learned that there is an optimum amount of information and advance notice that needs to be provided before we embark on any adventures that might result in serious bruising, blood loss, or broken bones. Not enough information may result in an absolute refusal to partake ("surprises are for kids"), and too much information may result in an absolute refusal to partake ("are you out of your mind?"). So while we were at the Mountain Zebra National Park I signed us up for the Cheetah Tracking and I was very quick to clear that activity with she-who-must-be-obeyed. What I may have neglected to mention is that the tracking of this potentially dangerous animal (to say nothing of all the other dangerous animals in the African bush) would be done on foot as opposed to the comfort/safety of the safari vehicles we were used to. To be honest I just assumed that this was one of those placid walks in the bush where you see a bunch of insects and plants along with piles of Zebra dung but very rarely anything significant, let alone a Cheetah. But when we arrived at our gathering spot, our guide was standing there with a rifle, and a VHF receiver and directional antenna. It might have helped DH's confidence a little if he wasn't fiddling with the receiver while securing the rifle with its butt firmly on the ground and the end of the barrel wedged tightly underneath his chin. Apparently gun safety isn't a big part of Ranger School.
 
You actually do start off in a safari vehicle and drive until the beeping of our rangers receiver and the road systems are no longer compatible. Apparently the beeping provides a rough estimate only and we were left to climb up and down a small mountain and across a large open plain, before ending up in a fairly dense bush. We were just about to assume that the receiver wasn't even working, and it was the ranger himself making all the beeping noises, when we pushed into a clearing and just about tripped over a mama cheetah and her four adolescent cubs. The teenagers, in particular, did seem to be eying us as a potential meal but for the most part they ignored us- knowing the lightening-like speed of a cheetah, there was no way we were going to outrun them but we were pretty confident we could outrun the other two who were on the trek with us (law of the jungle so to speak). The time spent with these amazing cats was a big Wow, more so because as we started the day we really didn't expect much.
 
We also signed up for a night safari because the stars of the park, the Cape Mountain Zebras, are apparently very skittish during the day but will get quite close at night. The park itself was created as the Mountain Zebra was close to extinction- since then they have seen a modest recovery (there are an estimated 2,700 in the wilds today). The are very distinct in both behaviour and appearance from the more common plains zebras and generally live in hot, dry, rocky, mountainous and hilly habitats. 
 
Because it was a full moon while we were here the park has put on substantial extra security- apparently the rhino poachers are particularly active during full moon nights. it was sad to think that even here, in the middle of South Africa, extraordinary measures have to be taken (unlike most other species the park will not publish population numbers or rhino sighting) to save a dwindling and precious critter.