Monday 22nd June 2009, Cambodia-Laos

We left Ban Lung today at about 8:30am. Our 1st destination of the day was the Cambodian/Laos boarder. We had to get a local mini bus to Stung Treng, which is the closest town to the boarder. Both Ban Lung and Stung Treng are in the north east so it only took about 2-3 hours. Once in Stung Treng we transferred on to another mini bus which just had another 2 English people on it and then we were driven to the boarder about half an hour away.

Now because the boarder crossing is an unofficial one we had to get our visas before hand. So all armed with our visas in passports off we trot to the security gates thinking, so what are they going to try and charge us for this time. At the Cambodia side we were charged $1 for exit stamps. There was a very strong feeling of wanting to say well don't bother with the stamps then, but you'll be pleased to know nothing was said and through gritted teeth we carried on. Although the guy with us did try to ask for a receipt but this was promptly ignored!! And then after paying for the toilet and crossing no mans land we were then charged another $2 on the Laos side. But this time I couldn't tell you what it was for! But if anything at least I got rid of my last riel!!

After getting through the boarder we then had to wait for a another 30 minutes for the next mini bus to pick us up and take us to Four Thousand Island (Si Phan Don), our first stop in Laos. The actual mini bus dropped us off in Ban Nakasang village, which is on the Mekong River and the point for catching the boat. The only way to get to Four Thousand Island is by boat. I am now once again a nervous wreck as the boat is the usual small wooden thing that looks like its going to capsize at any moment. Thankfully it didn't and the ride along the Mekong River to Don Det Island took about half an hour. By now it was about 2pm and roasting hot.

Prior to arriving Caroline had picked out the guesthouse she liked from the lonely planet and so off we went in search of this. The only problem was the guesthouse was on Dong Khon Island. This was not a problem as there was a bridge connecting the two islands but what they hadn't told us was that the walk there was enormous!! We'd chosen Dong Khon Island as it was the nicer quieter island of the two. Don Det is the party island and Dong Khon is the peaceful island with nicer accommodation!! So after a 45 minute walk (with bags) we then eventually managed to get a truck taxi complete with mud to take us and the other 2 to the bridge. I'm glad we did because the truck journey alone was very bumpy and about 20minutes long across the middle of the island. So a lot quicker and easier than walking the rest of the way. Plus Caroline was about to blow her top by this point so better all round!! Once at the bridge, the only railway bridge the French ever laid in Laos, we crossed over from Don Det onto Don Khon. From the other side thankfully it was then only another 5 minute walk to Pan's guesthouse. And thank the lord it was nice!! Because after all the walking and grumpiness (from both of us) if it had been a dump it would have caused lots more problems!!!

By now it was 3:30pm and as neither of us had eaten all day it was time for lunch. So after checking in we had lunch at the guesthouse restaurant. Chocolate pancakes for me and boiled egg and baguette for Caroline. After lunch it was chill out time. The guesthouse was basically wooden cabins with two beds inside plus fan and an en-suite bathroom. Each cabin also had a deck with a hammock, sun chair and table all over looking the Mekong. Very nice for chilling. Caroline took the hammock and me the sun chair and then we basically read until it got dark!! Which was just after 6pm and was also the time the heavens opened and also time for the electricity allowance to start. Don Khon only has electricity from 6pm-midnight. Don Det only has it till 11pm. With the heavens opening it was amazing how quickly it became cold. Mainly due to the heavy wind the rain brings. So after getting changed into some warmer clothes we headed over to the restaurant at about 8pmish for dinner. We had a curry dish (mild), fish wrapped in banana leaf and steamed (Caroline did not like as she found it too mushy) and sticky rice. Sticky rice is a specialty and it comes in a bamboo dish. It's sticky and slightly sweet, you then roll it up into balls and dip it into the sauce of your accompanying dish. We liked. After dinner we played some cards before heading to bed around 11pm still in time for the last hour of electricity.

Tuesday 23rd June 2009, Don Kohn Island

We started today with a bit of a lay in, well what lay in we could with no electricity to operate the fan which is well needed in these temperatures. After having a lovely COLD shower (a regular thing now) we had a drink at the guesthouse restaurant before hiring bikes and going off on a bike ride around the island. We left at 12pm ish and headed off in one direction knowing that it didn't really matter which direction we went in as eventually we would do the full island and end up back where we started. Now the tracks around the island were a mixture of smooth ish and rocky as hell. So quite bumpy in places but thankfully not a lot of up hill sections!! Although soon after leaving we discovered that's Caroline's bike chain was prone to coming off!! This happened so often during our 4 hour bike ride that I do believe she is now an expert at reapplying the chain!!! We cycled for about an hour through forest and across farm land before reaching the far end of the island where there was also the old French port. This was also the start of the railway track or so we were told as its old and now longer visible. We stopped here for a bottle of water and an attempt at stopping the sweating for a while-not very successfully. From here we cycled along to Dolphin Bay (we didn't know this until we got there as we were cycling with no map and just going where we fancied!). Dolphin bay is actually a sand beach leading into the Mekong River. So no swimming for us then although the locals love the Mekong!! Also from here you can get a boat to see the endangered Irrawaddy Dolphins. But as we had already seen them in Kratie we declined. Whilst here we got talking to 3 people (1 English, 1 Aussie and a guy from Hong Kong) and had lunch with them whilst taking tips from each other. They had finished Laos and were heading for Cambodia. By now it was nearing 3:30pm (lunch took forever to appear) so off we cycled again back towards our side of the island stopping at one of the islands main waterfalls. Sorry but I've forgotten its name but it was spectacular!! Huge and a very dangerous piece of water but I'M SURE SOME CRAZY Kayaker will have canoed it!! Not a good thought but it was spectacular to look at and the photos hopefully do it justice!! After here we took a different path but in the same direction but unfortunately for me a lot of the trees were overgrowing across the paths at a height that was not convenient for me so consequently I had a few battles with the branches which has left me with a few cuts and grazes. Caroline was fine but being a short arse helped her greatly!!

We arrived back at our guesthouse at about 4:30pm and we were toying with idea of going over to DON DET but with the time and the looming black clouds, and also because sun set was pretty close we decided against it. So after finding a few toiletries we had a drink before chilling in our hammocks for a while. Sun set was good tonight as the black clouds passed over, so the Mekong sunset was fairly good! Dinner tonight was at a different restaurant around the corner where we both had special cooked fish in garlic. Very nice but quite boney. The cats also loved it when we eventually let them have some!! Bed around 11pmish!

Wednesday 24th June 2009, Don Kohn-Savahaket

We left Don Kohn Island at about 11am. First transport of the day was boat over to Don Det. This took about half an hour and once again I was not exactly comfortable on the boat especially when people moved. Do they not know how nervous I am stay still god dam you!!! Once back on Ban Nakasang we waited for about half an hour before getting a cramped mini bus to Pakse. This only took about 2 and a half hours, so not so bad. Once at Pakse we jumped off the minibus at the local bus station in order to get the local bus to Savahaket. Whilst waiting we did a quick bit of money exchange (Dollars to Kip) and used the facilities (yet again having to pay to pee!) before the bus left at 2:30pm. Well it left the bus station but it took another hour and half before it left Pakse. Why I hear you ask, yes we were thinking this as well until it transpired that we were to pick up several more people along the road just getting out of Pakse and as well as these people we were to pick up 10 trunks of fish to go with the already full roof of bananas. We also loaded on many a bag of rice, sugar cane and by the time we reached Savahaket we also had acquired a motorbike (on the roof), 2 goats (on the roof) and about 12 big cartons of petrol lining the aisles!! We were very glad that when they but the fish on board they moved our bags out of the under bus hold section and but them on board!! We did not want fishy knickers!! After a very long but funny bus journey we eventually reached Savahaket at about 8:30pm. We were meant to get there about 6:30pm!! From the bus station we took a tuk tuk into town, looked at 2 guesthouses before deciding on the second, checked in, grabbed some dinner and bed by about 11:30pm.