After the usual patchy night's sleep on the bus we were dropped off in the middle of Nha Trang at 6.30am. It was early but the sun was already up and the streets were busy. Admittedly much of the crowd was hotel and hostel touts or taxi drivers but still it was incredibly busy for the hour.

We grabbed our bags out of the bus, moved away from the crowd rejecting all offers and got our bearings. We then headed towards an earlier earmarked hotel to try our luck. Along the way, we passed a number of people coming back from the beach following their early morning swim. In our sweaty state it seemed they had the right idea!

The hotel had rooms available and although the first two rooms weren't satisfactory we settled on a third. We ditched our bags and freshened up. A night on the bus had done our bags no favours and they were now drenched in sweat. Not a great feeling but nothing we can do, the heat and humidity is here to stay.

We popped out to find some breakfast - a task that was harder than it first seemed. We walked to the beachfront, the sun already beating down, expecting to find some cafés but they were few and far between and the first couple we stopped at didn't serve breakfast or any food. We finally found a bakery which was open and happy to serve us. It appears that Nha Trang is a location that comes alive after dark and so we ate alone.

Our task for the day was to book a boat trip for tomorrow and an overnight bus to Ho Chi Minh City a few days later. We got some quotes around town and decided to go with the hotel's prices. Back at the hotel, as it was still early and so fairly quiet, we also took the opportunity to check out flight and visa options on the internet. A theme we returned to several times during the day.

The afternoon was spent at the beach after hiring a couple of sun loungers. Despite a black cloud passing overhead, we stayed until early evening before returning to the hotel to change before heading back out.

The plan was to walk to the Giant Buddha overlooking the town and get some dinner on the way back. The walk to the Buddha was a long one and took in many areas and aspects of Nha Trang life away from the normal tourist areas. Along the way we passed a bakery where, as we had an early start the following day, we got some bits for breakfast.

As the sun disappeared and night time came and we were well off the tourist track, we decided that the park area where the Buddha was situated was a little unsavoury so decided not to get up close and personal. Better safe than sorry.

Finding somewhere to eat was difficult, there is a feeling that the town is suffering an identity crisis and as a result lacks a certain je ne sais quoi. It doesn't know if it is catering for travellers such as us passing through, Russian holidaymakers (there are a lot of Russians here and much Cyrillic signage as a result) or younger backpackers looking for a good time; beers and nightlife. As a consequence I'm not sure it provides fully for any of these groups.

After finding an expensive but delicious Italian, we found a small night market to nose around before returning to the hotel.

The following morning the alarm rang for longer than normal - it was tough to get up! After enjoying a breakfast in the room bought from the bakery the night before and enduring another cold shower we were ready for the day ahead.

An empty minivan pulled up at 8.30 and we got onboard. The air-conditioning was not the best and even this early the sun was hot. After 30 minutes picking up other passengers (mostly Vietnamese) we found ourselves next door to our hotel for our next pick up. We were left scratching our head why we needed to be picked up so much earlier!

At around 9.30 instead of the advertised 9am we made it to port and saw our boat for the first time. Or should I say "heard". This was to be no relaxed and peaceful cruise, but more an operation appealing to the party scene. The boat was also, rather oddly and unfittingly judging by the music blaring out, full of Chinese tourists.

Once all 40-odd of us were onboard (packed like sardines) we set off for island number 1. Our disappointment was palpable and this mixed with our early morning tiredness made us a tad grumpy. Disappointment because the Nha Trang boat tours are clearly aimed at young holidaymakers looking for a "good time", not newly married couples looking for rest and relaxation in the sunshine!

At the first island, Mieu Island, there was an opportunity to visit an aquarium if we were happy to pay the inflated entrance fee. We passed on this opportunity and instead sat in the shade looking at the beautiful scenery. And trying to gee each other up, to be honest. We were going to make the best of a bad situation.

Once everyone was back onboard, we moved on to another island, Mot Island, where there was an opportunity to dive or snorkel, again for an extra fee. Or just to swim. We spent some time messing around in the water before waiting for those who went diving to return and sailing further before stopping for some lunch.

There was nowhere to lie down onboard with just hard seats downstairs and no furniture at all upstairs. For lunch half of the passengers ate upstairs (I assumed some temporary furniture was fashioned for the duration) while the hard seats downstairs were transformed into a large table with the rest of us seated round the edge. Dinner was served, not fresh fish as you might expect (and indeed advertised) but rice, noodles and a few other bits and pieces. It was filling and tasty enough.

Afterwards we were "treated" to the crew boy band (I can never listen to Californication - Red Hot Chili Peppers ever again) followed by performances from volunteers of each nation onboard. A poor man's Eurovision if you will. As the only English people onboard we were expected to get up and perform. But still being ill at ease with the whole thing, we refused to participate.

At this point it was time for the floating bar (which was free) and more messing around in the water. From here we sailed further to another island where we left the boat and, after paying the entrance fee, enjoyed a tranquil 90 minutes in the shade in a deckchair. Kirsty was so relaxed, she fell asleep!

Once back on the boat, we enjoyed one piece of fruit (again included in the price) and headed back to port and a far quicker drop off followed. Back home an hour ahead of the programme with a feeling of relief, disbelief and a little dirty for being involved in such a sordid waste of the beautiful Vietnam scenery.

With some time to kill we showered and chilled out watching a movie in the room. After changing, we spent some time on the internet uploading photos (a necessary evil - why does it always take so long? Can't it be instantaneous?!) before finding a guidebook-recommended café to have some food. This time we weren't disappointed, the food was hot, tasty and cheap.

Tomorrow we have a night bus to Ho Chi Minh City which we also booked through the hotel. Here's hoping it's not as disappointing as today's Funky Monkey boat tour.

A nice lie-in followed then we checked out and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of eggs and bread at the hotel. Leaving our backpacks behind, we strolled to the beach (slowly due to the sun). We negotiated with the boy selling sun loungers and with book in hand we assumed our position for the majority of the day.

After a number of hours of sunbathing, it was ice-cream time. However despite a thorough search I couldn't find anywhere which could sell me an ice-cream. Which just about sums Nha Trang up - something is missing.

Returning to the beach, conditions clouded up but, with nothing else planned, we stuck it out. The highlight of the afternoon being some guys turning up who worked for a watersports company.

They arrived at the beach on a jet-ski and a speedboat and a couple of Vietnamese tourists had obviously paid for the privilege of parasailing with the company. As the staff got them and their slightly ropey parachute ready, we watched on. It was then time for the off, the speedboat accelerated away, the couple ran down the beach but at the critical point there was no lift and they plunged into the sea, taking a member of the staff with them. Cue laughter and the whole preparation routine began again. But again there was no lift and so two very wet and unhappy Vietnamese gave up and trudged off while the staff disappeared into the distance in their speedboat. All very odd!

An early dinner followed before returning to the hotel to take full advantage of a shower they had very kindly afforded us. Unfortunately they didn't say it was a cold insect-infested one!

Once the shower experience was over, the wait for the night bus began. Due at 7.30pm we waited along with another passenger (a lone Chinese lady) until just after 8 when our ride arrived. Luckily the bus was virtually empty so we selected two top bunks adjacent to each other, Kirsty very kindly allowing me the longer of the two while she took the one of a child's proportions.

The coach filled in no time (almost exclusively of non-Westerners) and we were on our way out of Nha Trang. As we picked up more people, it appeared that one guy had actually reserved the very seat I was sat in (didn't even know it was possible to reserve specific seats). After being told in no uncertain terms by the coach company staff member that I had to move to a seat he was showing me, the other passenger relented and he himself moved to the other seat.

After travelling for almost 4 hours without a break, another passenger asked for a toilet break. Ten minutes later the driver obliged and I took the opportunity to spend a penny. Unfortunately without my lenses in, I was unsure where to go so I followed a fellow passenger to find a line of men near the bushes. Without a thought as to what was in and around the bushes I did my business before hastily returning to the bus. Once back on, we had to climb over the sleeping 2nd driver who was sprawled out in the corridor of the bus.

At 2am and through eyes that were half asleep we reached Mui Ne, a popular beach resort and our final pick up. Here a number of Westerners got on and I returned to sleep as the bus drove on.