After the best night sleep I have had on a night bus we arrived bright and early in Ho Chi Minh City AKA HCMC and Saigon. After avoiding the few awaiting taxi/motorcycle hawkers we headed into the park where we had been dropped off to have a look at the Lonely Planet and make a plan. We decided to head into the backpackers area and see what accommodation was on offer.

The first place we saw quoted us $16 dollars a night which is a fair amount even for a capital city, especially when the room wasn't great so we declined and walked on. The next place we saw was $10 for a fan room (air-con is to be kept to a minimum to keep costs down) so as per usual routine Neil waited with the bags while I looked at the room (I think I'm more fussy about where I lay my head than he is!). The room was a bargain for the price so we took it, dumped our bags and clothes and got straight into bed for a few more hours sleep - it was still only 7am!

After a few more hours' kip, we got up, showered and headed out to explore the capital. We mooched around for a while, collecting Mekong tour brochures and had some breakfast - bacon and eggs which was scrummy and cheap too! After breakfast we looked around a little more, picking up some contact lens solution for Neil before stumbling into a working area where we were the only western faces. It's not the first time we have walked for 20 minutes or so away from the backpacking area and have found ourselves the only western people. Weird. We felt very brave when we sat at a local shop and had a drink out of the sun to think about or Mekong trip some more still coming to a confused conclusion!

We continued to walk around and just by chance walked into an electrical shop. We were amazed to find a small hp netbook in English. We decided to throw caution to the wind and bought it - we had been mulling it over for a while so when the opportunity presented itself we thought why not! We had to go back in an hour or so to collect it so we went for a drink and thought about our future travel plans some more. After an hour sheltering from the rain we went back to the shop to collect our new netbook. Yay! After we had dropped our new prized possession back at the hostel (hidden away of course!) we went back out and booked a Mekong day tour as well as the bus to Cambodia before having some food. It was still raining so we came back to the hostel to play with our new toy. We also more importantly booked our flights in and out of Laos. Today has been a good day - I think I am going to like HCMC!

We arose from our slumber at about 10am, showered, dressed and headed out for our walking tour - fitting breakfast in along the way! Our tour started by walking past a square in which a marquee was being set up with a stage, there were also flags and 37 year liberation propaganda everywhere. Tomorrow is Liberation Day and Vietnam celebrate 37 years of independence.

We then crossed over the crazy busy roundabout past the bus station and numerous street food sellers. On this roundabout is a statue of Tran Nguyen Hai on horseback. After crossing another section of the crazy roundabout we got to the fine arts museum which we decided to miss this time but not without admiring the architecture of the beautiful building. We followed the walking tour down a side street and it again became apparent that you don't have to wander too far from the backpacking area to get away from the huge number of westerners.

As we walked to our next destination we passed a barber's chair in the street, unfortunately no one was manning it else Neil would have been having his unruly mop cut. We continued to follow the tour and walked down a local market street where they were selling everything from water to pants to chickens (dead and alive!). These markets still fascinate me - I wonder if I looked at Leicester market with fresh eyes I would be fascinated by that too? We then cooled off inside a lovely ice cream parlour. This was a real treat along the way.

We headed towards the opera house through all the posh shops (no haggling to be done here! And sorry Mum - your Prada handbag would have demolished my whole travel budget) and soon noticed the gorgeous building. It also had the added attraction of the square in front of it that had a gallery of photos to do with the Vietnam War which were interesting. We also took in the stunning building that is the peoples committee building but it was sad to notice a living block just next door in such a bad state of disrepair.

On the way to the war museum we walked through a park which had an outdoor gym like the ones we saw in China so Neil and I both did our workouts for the day causing a few glances from the locals! (See Dawn I am still going to the gym when I can!).

In the War museum we saw lots of propaganda posters, pictures of worldwide protests against the US and their use of force and we learnt a lot of history surrounding the War. There were also some moving pictures drawn by Vietnamese children depicting love and peace in the world. I reflected that this is all so simple and right, so what makes these children grow up to stop believing in this ideal? The photos and descriptions in the museum, admittedly all from the Vietnamese side, were all so emotive. There were photos of when the War was ongoing of people being tortured and killed by the US troops. There were also photos showing the devastation caused to Vietnam during the War. It's frightening to believe that all this was going on in our parent's lifetime! I think the most upsetting thing for me were the photos, descriptions and life stories of the children and babies still being born with deformities due to the Agent Orange that was used during this time. I don't agree with War on the whole anyway but it is even more horrifying that it is still causing victims 37 years later and for how much longer is totally unknown. Having a baby, happy and healthy, is an everyday miracle normally, but in Vietnam it is even more cherished and hoped for. It all got a little bit too much for us both, especially the horrific large photos of specimen jars filled with disfigured miscarried foetuses due to Agent Orange, so we headed out for some fresh air taking in the tanks and aircraft as we left. It was interesting and upsetting, it made me realised how lucky I am to have not lived through a war (and hopefully won't ever experience one!) and how even more grateful I am to those who did and do.

We walked past the Reunification Palace, now with the gates back in place after the tanks waded through on 30th April 1975 to signify the end of the fighting (and now known as Liberation day!), but unfortunately couldn't go in as we were too late due to spending too long in the museum. We walked on to the Notre Dame Cathedral while mass was on - it was so full that people were standing outside to worship, an awesome sight to behold in the middle of busy HCMC. I was not sure if this was because it was a Sunday or because it was Liberation day or is just the norm.

The grand post office was next where the attention to detail was beautiful - I especially liked the row of old fashioned phone boxes and the vintage looking maps of the Mekong Delta and Saigon. We then decided to head for the end of the tour for a drink in the Sheraton Hotels 23rd floor bar. It all felt rather too posh for two scruffy and sweaty backpackers after a day's exploring but we reasoned our moneys as good as anyone's and went for it. We ended up with two cocktails each (buy one get one free on the menu - and the cheapest thing available!) and spending half of our days budget but the views of HCMC were amazing and totally worth it! Thanks to Mita and Rajeev for their contribution to tipples around the world - This isn't the first and won't be the last!

We sat and watched the sun set over the city reflective after our day of history but happy. After a little mix up with the directions (me getting them right for once and Neil being proved wrong - YESSSS!!) we got back to the backpackers area and had some dinner. After this we went back to the hostel as we were exhausted after a huge day. An emotive, tiring but educational day.

We were up bright and early this morning excited for our Mekong Delta tour. After an annoying 30 minute wait for the bus (I could have stayed in bed!) we were on our way. Our friendly, enthusiastic and slightly annoying guide talked non-stop on the coach which was made worse as we were trying to sleep! After the obligatory shop stop where we could use the 'happy house' (a term the Vietnamese use for toilet) we were back on the road and on our way.

We arrived at Cai Be and hopped on a motorised long tail type boat which took us through the floating market. The boats were bigger than I expected, but as Daniel (our excitable guide) explained, they were wholesale boats and as well as all the stock the families also lived on board. The boats all had long poles sticking up off them with an example of whatever they were selling attached to the end of it - a great way to know you were at the right place for what you wanted!

The scenery was stunning and it was nice to see the local people going about their everyday life. We saw women in conical hats, men lounging in hammocks on board their boats, men washing themselves in the river, women washing their clothes in it and children splashing about in it. Life here really does revolve around the Mekong!

We got off the boat and went to a bee farm where we tasted honey and lime tea - it was yummy! We also tasted some cobra wine which was fermented in a big jar with who knows what in it but it included a snake and a dead bird! There was also fermented banana wine - both were far too strong for me! We were also shown how local produce is made such as coconut candy, rice paper and puffed rice being made into bars. It all looked like such hot and tedious work but the people do it because that's what they have to do to survive - if they don't work then they have nothing.

It was then back on the boat for a 35 minute cruise to our lunch spot which was a little island on the Mekong. We ate steamed rice, vegetables, spring rolls and pork - it was yum! After lunch Neil and I took a bike each and cycled around some of the island. I was a little wobbly and couldn't cycle up the bridges but I was very proud of myself as I can't remember the last time I rode a bike. As we were riding around we noticed a man following us on a moped and taking photos of us but it wasn't until we were back at the restaurant that we realised it was the owner. So he gave us his e-mail address so I could e-mail and request the photos he took.

After this we jumped back on the boat, cruised along the iconic Mekong Delta and back to the bus. It took 3 hours to get back to HCMC. We finally found a chemist to get something for Neil's poorly ear and then aimed for a pizza place to spend the rest of our dong! We happily shared some pizza and pasta, reflecting on a lovely day. It was then back to the hostel to pack ready for the border hop into our next country - Cambodia!

Another early start today with the usual moving on routine of showering, packing, checking out and making our way to the mode of transport of our choice. We walked to the office where we had bought the bus tickets from and after about 20 minutes we boarded the bus. Our bags were stored at the back of the bus rather than underneath as usual and our passports were taken from us - weird! I noticed we had some live animals on board in the shape of baby chicks - No idea who's they were or where they were going but no one else batted an eyelid! We were soon on our way to the border. Neil and I had some breakfast of bakery treats bought in preparation yesterday and then I fell asleep till the border - my last sights of Vietnam passing me by. At the border I was lovingly nudged by my husband and told to wake up. We got off the bus and went into the exit hall where thankfully our passports had already been handed over by the bus company. Our passports were stamped with no problems and we walked out at the other end into no man's land. It was all very quick and painless on the Vietnamese side.

We jumped back on the bus and headed across no man's land to the Cambodian office. Again this was quick and painless, a 30 day visa issued on the spot for $25 each. The only problem came when I was asked to re scan the fingers of my left hand. In all the panic of the border crossing I couldn't work out which was my right or left hand - how embarrassing! We were then back on the bus and on our way to the Cambodian Capital of Phnom Penh.

Lots of love and sloppy kisses! xxxxxxxxxxxxxx